Engine Size: 4.5
Refrigerant Type: R134a
Ambient Temp: 80F
Pressure Low: 10
Pressure High: 140
Country of Origin: Canada
My SUV is leaking a/c refrigerant for sure. I have to add a can(12oz) of R134a every 2 or 3 days in the hot summer. Once added a/c is working fine, high side is ok low side is a bit low. I have added UV dye 2 months ago but didn't find the leaking point in engine bay. what else can I do next? Help, please.
I'm assuming these pressures are before you added refrigerant. Not sure what to tell you other than to look a bit closer for the leak --- including the condensate drain tube for the evaporator. With such a fast leak, and the system containing dye, it should show up pretty clearly I'd think. Oily residue at the connections are always a possibility as well.
An electronic leak detector will readily find that size of leak.
It probably is in the evaporator compartment if you don't see any dye under the hood. Also a compressor shaft seal can leak a lot without showing dye outside of the seal area, which is hidden under the clutch.
place a plastic sandwhich bag or your wife's shower cap around the front of the compressor. Let it sit ovwernight and then stick the probe of a leak detector in there.
It's "OK" to use a shop sometimes, the 2nd pair of eyes theory....
Thanks everyone for suggestions.
Just came back from a long trip. It's terrible driving in 100F without a/c.
I checked a/c lines and compressor with UV light again and again in the weekend but end up finding nothing. The compressor body is a little oily but that's from a previous power steering leak. all other lines are clean.
The CPS electronic leak detector arrived in the weekend. Unfortunately it didn't find any leakage.
Also tried soap water, no bubbles.
The only place not check is evaporator, which I'm not able to get probe there.
I haven't located the drain tubing yet, that maybe a place to check.
So...send it to a repair shop? I'm wondering how much more they could do than I have done.
Evaporator leaks are typically found with an electronic halogen detector placed in the vents or the condensate drain line.
You may want to take to a, "auto AC shop" and pay for a diagnosis of the point of leakage, which they would show to you (only). Then you could get an estimate for additional cost to repair such leak, and then decide on the plan of action.
I'd think most legitimate shops are OK with a customer paying for a "diagnosis only" service; I know my local mechanic is OK with stuff like that.
Yep, nothing wrong with taking it to a shop to pinpoint the leak if you're having trouble doing so. Once they find the leak, try to detect it yourself so you know what's required the next time. Just the occasional price of tuition in the school of DIY.
Finally found the source of leakage. It is a couple tiny holes on the low side aluminum tube of rear a/c, near the driver side rear wheel well. The plastic casing out of the tube held a lot of compressor oil with UV dye, that's why I didn't find oil leak.
Now the question is: Is is ok to cut off this part aluminum tube and make a new one to replace? Is it a DIY job? what tools do I need?.
Thanks for suggestions!
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