Engine Size: 2.4L
Refrigerant Type: R-134
Ambient Temp: 98
Pressure Low: 40
Pressure High: 250
Country of Origin: United States
I replaced my AC 2 weekends ago and finally had the time to register here. The problem that I'm having with my AC is that it doesn't cool while at idle. I've replaced the AC compressor, AC Dryer, Expansion Valve, and the Evaporator. As for the Condenser I flushed it out with solution as well as the lines. I have a video of the gauge readings that I took a few days ago (see below). Is my AC compressor cycling properly? I don't seem to hear it click on/off.
The major problem I feel with my AC is that it doesn't cool unless I'm driving. The air is not cold when I'm at idle on a hot day (98+ degrees F). Could you please help me diagnose my problem? Also I noticed that my Expansion valve that came with the kit I ordered was missing a piece that the stock Expansion valve had (refer to pic). Could this cause an issue?
AC Gauge Readings Video
Thanks in advance.
I also wanted to mention that I did not re-wrap my expansion valve with the stick foam outer covering like the old one had. Can this create issues?
Your link doesn't work for me. The piece you questioned on the TXV does not have to be transferred to the new one. It is a different version. If it's just at an idle problem, check the air flow across the condenser. The TXV should be wrapped but it is probably not your idle problem. Give us the vent temps at cruising speed and at idle.
What was wrong with the original compressor? In case of internal compressor failure, the condenser should have been replaced. It's very hard to flush debris out of a PF condenser.
Compressor generally will cycle infrequently or not at all at idle on a hot day. It cycles off only when the evaporator is fully cold.
Hope this works...
Edited: Wed August 28, 2013 at 8:05 PM by rsxdriver90
Fluctuating high side points to non-condensables.
I'm assuming the non-condensables could be metal flakes within the condenser? Or... could it be air trapped within my system? I don't think its the latter since I evacuated the system before charging it.
Air is correct. Even if you evacuated before charging, sometimes people accidentally introduce air because their hoses were not purged correctly. Not saying you did this but is there that possibility?
Well... I think you may be right. I didn't exactly purge the line before filling the system with freon (rookie mistake). However, if this is the case does a little bit of air really cause this to happen? Also, I noticed when I was driving my car yesterday in 107 degree weather (all highway driving) my car didn't cool down despite being driven ~65mph. I can't exactly quantize the air temperature since I didn't have a thermometer with me, but the conditioned air was barely 'cool'. Then a few hours later when the sun went down I drove my car with the AC on and it was blowing 'chilled' air. Is this due to the air in my AC system? I know the air won't blow as cold with the sun up but this is a bit ridiculous.
Air in the system can greatly reduce cooling. You also must realize that we are at our computers and not at your vehicle. Why not bite the bullet and replace the condenser? If your oeiginal compressor failed, it could have plugged up portions of the condenser. Try misting the condenser with a water hose. See if the high side drops radically and cooling increases. If yes, you have inefficient condensing. You could also measure the input and output temps of the condenser. I like to see at least a 20 to 30* drop. Also. make sure the drier was not reversed. This happens on retrofit systems but usually not on OEM's but eliminate that as a cause.
Was it a proper replacement compressor or was it a junkyard one?
When you evacuated the system, how long did you want to make sure it holds vacuum and how long did you do the final vacuuming step to get rid of all the moisture?
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