Engine Size: 1.5
Refrigerant Type: 134
Ambient Temp: 100
Pressure Low: 35
Pressure High: 250
Compressor engages when I first drive the car, but after 15-30 minutes compressor does not engage, until the next day, is this the clutch going out? it has the original compressor and clutch 140,000 miles, if it is the clutch, should I just get the compressor with clutch or just the clutch?
How wide is the clutch gap?
reset your air gap to .020" by removing a shim...
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
Tried to use search function to find instructions, can someone explain
First check that the condenser fan comes on and the engine revs up slightly when you press the A/C button at a time when the compressor doesn't engage. If those things don't happen, there is a different problem.
You can work on the clutch with the system charged. Reach it from underneath the car, take the plastic splash shields off. You may need to unmount the compressor and lower it down (without disconnecting the lines) for access. Unscrew the shaft nut (conventional right hand threads) that holds the clutch plate on. There is a special tool to hold the plate from rotating while you turn the nut, but usually you can just put a screwdriver across the rivets. After the nut is off, the plate slides off the shaft-- when you go to reassemble realize that it is specially splined so it will only engage in one clock position. There are shim washers on the shaft. Take some washers out and reassemble. It is hard to measure the gap exactly when the clutch is worn because there will be grooves worn into the plate and pulley rather than a flat surface. So just set it smaller than it was, but make sure it doesn't drag when off.
Ok guys, thanks for all the advice, I took the clutch plate off, there was a washer behind there, took the washer off, and now she engages all the time, thanks, my wife is happy now!!
I realize this indicates the clutch is wearing, do I need to think about replacement in the imediate future???
Ok Im back again, compressor now will NOT turn on at all, the a/c button on the dash lights, condensor fan does not turn on, no audiable click from the clutch, dont know where to start? I did probe the positive wire going to the clutch with everything on and no voltage there. The one connector that has the fuse looking thing that you remove to get the compressor to turn on when charging, sorry dont know what is it called there is voltage there.
I read on another post how to check the low pressure switch, the actual switch has continuity, and the wires one has 12v and the other has 4.7 there is no change to the voltages when the A/C button is engaged
Edited: Thu June 21, 2012 at 9:41 PM by 73Wagoneer
If condenser fan doesn't start, it's likely a problem with the controls inside the car. Measure at the pressure switch (still plugged in) both wires should have 12 volts to ground system OFF and near zero system ON (negative logic). This ground comes from the fan switch to the A/C button to the thermal control (on top of evaporator case, remove the glove box to see it) then to the condenser fan relay and tees off to the pressure switch.
Edited: Thu June 21, 2012 at 9:34 PM by mk378
When I was checking the voltages one the wires, going back into the car to turn the A/C switch on the condesor fan came on and shut off, once it shut off I had 12v on the wire, so when back into the car and tinkered with the a/c switch on got everything to kick on. so I believe it is the A/C switch, can you clean this or get a replacement
Thanks for your help, I also read some of your post on the Honda Civic Forum
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