Engine Size: 350
Refrigerant Type: 134
Country of Origin: United States
Hi, I'm new here and I'm really glad I found this site. I've perused several posts and gotten some good information. Now, I need to ask a couple of questions. I've searched this site and found some posts asking more or less the same question as my first one, but I've seen a couple of different answers that just lead me to more questions. First question, I've replaced my stock exhaust with headers, so I can no longer mount my original A6 compressor. I purchased a bracket kit from Alan Grove that works with the Sanden style compressors, but I don't know which is best for my application. In some posts, guys have updated using later model engines with V5 or V7 compressors, and they seem to be highly regarded.
I'll be using my original condenser and evaporator (unless there is good reason to replace them). However, the POA/TXV components pose another set of questions. If I go with a Sanden-style compressor, which is better, one of their SD7 (such as the H15), or should I get one of their variable displacement units (I'm assuming that it would work like the V5-7)? As far as I know, the POA valve still works properly, but in another post regarding the V7, it was recommended to delete it and just use the TXV.
Also, in shopping for compressors, I've learned that there are some Sanden-style 10-piston units with larger (171cc) displacement than the 7H15. Would I benefit by using a larger compressor, or even going to a smaller unit?
I know virtually nothing about A/C systems (as you can probably see from this post), and really appreciate some sound advice on how to select the right components to make my system work properly. By the way, I will have any work done on the system performed by a reputable shop near me, I just want to make sure that I have the right parts in the trunk when I get there.
Thanks in advance,
I think the title of your post should be "DOWNGRADING from A-6 to ?" since that is what you'll be doing. Aside from shaft seal leaks which are easily fixed, the A-6 is a time proven work horse. A lot of them are still working after some 50 years. The R-12 based TXV/POA system with the A-6 compressor you have is pretty much the best there is.
If you do decide to "downgrade" from the A-6 and go with a V-5 or V-7, I agree that deleting the POA would be the best course of action, since the control valve in the variable displacement compressor will be controlling evaporator pressure.
It sure doesn't sound like you know virtually nothing about A/C systems, and you've certainly done some homework. If you're willing to invest in some A/C specific tools available from this site, you can probably complete the job completely by yourself... and have the knowledge (and tools) to fix your other vehicles.
Definitely consider one of the Do-It-Yourself (DIY) Starter and Advance Kits from the site sponsor. And if you get one of these kits from the site sponsor, you also get lots of support from a lot of professional techs and auto enthusiasts who hang around here.
I look at it this way, say you get your whole system together and you forget to fully tighten a fitting. You pay $100 to $150 to get the system charged, and then that fitting gets loose, and you lose all your refrigerant. Now you have to find the leak, repair it, and go back to get a recharge, so you're at $200-$300, don't own anything, and will probably get a snarky, "I told ya so" [about doing your own work] from the shop. If you have the tools, you're only out a few cans of R-134a and your time. That's the nice thing about having tools.
Over the years, no matter what the job for the most part, it's better to buy the tools and do the stuff yourself if you can. Of course, this isn't going to apply to things like say concrete, where you'd need a cement truck costing a few hundred thousand, but you get the idea.
We've updated our forums!
Click here to visit the new forum
Copyright © 2016 Arizona Mobile Air Inc.