Engine Size: 5.7
Refrigerant Type: R134A
Bought an A/C schrader valve tool from Oreilley's the other day and the diameter of the tool was tool larger to go all the way into the low side and remove the schrader valve. Anyone know of a tool that does work? My schrader valve leaks and the system is empty so I thought would replace the valve. Have new caps to put on too. Bought a Murray 26783 kit at Oreilleys. Think it may also be a Four Seasons kit.
1998 Chevy C1500 5.7L
Doesn't O'Rielly support what they sell? Schrader valve tool is fairly straightforward.
Never heard of any problem with the tools sold by the site sponsor.
Really lost on this one, Scharder valve stems that can be removed and easily replaced died with R-12. You show a 98 car that came with these stupid R-134a quick coupler ports that are not repairable. Either have to change the entire valve, line that it is in, or the entire vehicle.
I will order the tool from the sponsor. The diameter appears to be smaller on the longer end. BTW, the high side is not a schrader valve. I has some sort of ball looking valve. Everything is stock on the truck. Appreciate the replies.
If it's leaked down to zero you should look for other leaks such as the common "belly leak" from the compressor body. Shrader valves may leak but the refrigerant can't escape with the plastic cap on.
High side should be a primary valave. You replace the entire valave not the core.
While I always want people to support the site. Not sure what would be all the different between the chain store valve core tool and the one JJ listed.
That tool, Joe posted, should work fine on your tire valve stems. R-134a service ports use a neoprene disk that can move a tad to the right or left and never seat properly, really a crazy approach since they say releasing refrigerant into the atmosphere can cause the end of the earth. And the leakage potential is far greater due to the much larger area than the good old fashion Scharder type.
The old Scharder valve caps were made of metal and could be sealed tight. R-134a uses cheap plastic caps that in particular on the high side get hot and brittle and easily snap into two. If you over tighten them either strip the threads or they break apart. This was all approved by the EPA that pretends to wanting to protect the environment. If anyone is from the EPA reading this, you are a bunch of crooks or idiots, certainly contradictory and a bunch of idiotic hypocrites.
Then only holding the techs liable for not recovering refrigerant when you approved this this crap, recover what? You should be ashamed of yourself, go back to the York with real service valves, that was used before you assholes ever existed!
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