Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum (Archives)

Provided by www.ACkits.com

We've updated our forums!
Click here to visit the new forum

Archive Home

Search Auto AC Forum Archives

Resealing a HR-6 Compressor

jluke42 on Tue August 02, 2011 12:01 AM User is offline

Year: 1988
Make: Oldsmobile
Model: Cutlass Ciera
Engine Size: 3.8
Refrigerant Type: R-12
Ambient Temp: 92
Pressure Low: 34
Pressure High: 245
Country of Origin: United States

The above vehicle has been in our family since new. originally purchased by my wife's Mother. The vehicle only has slightly over 70K miles. The a/c system still performs fairly well but the HR-6 compressor has turned into your traditional "belly leaker" with some oil visible at the case o-rings and looks like possibly at the shaft seal. My question is how difficult is it to reseal the HR-6?

Two years ago, with coaching from GM Tech, Chick and other members of the forum, I successfully resealed (with parts from AMA) a V-5 compressor (took two tries on the shaft seal due to my own stupidity). That compressor is still on my wife's vehicle and has not required any refrigerant to be added. I have all the tools that were necessary for resealing the V-5.

Are there any major differences in the method of disassembly of the HR-6 vs V-5? Are there any peculiarities that I should be aware of? Any helpful hints would be appreciated. If there is already a posting on the forum concerning the resealing of a HR-6, maybe someone could direct me to it.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

GM Tech on Tue August 02, 2011 7:44 AM User is offline

First thing I do is scribe a line down all four parts- the front head, the front cylinder, the rear cylinder and the rear head---orientation upon re-assembly is a must! parts can get rotated 120 degrees if you are not careful! and you'll have a "no pumper"- been there, done that! then pull clutch, pulley and coil-- mark coil location (scribe)...remove the 6 13mm through bolts... then I use a vice grip chain vice and a vice and rotate rear head slowly back and forth until it comes off- then I do the same for the front head and cylinders- be careful not to let front cylinder half release the pistons and shoes-- remove the rear cylinder from the front cylinder- all pstons and shoes can stay with the shaft in the front cylinder.. then clean with emory cloth, or rotating wire brush, all the sealing surfaces- as well as shaft seal surface- then I put rear head in vice and rei-nstall cylinder assembly- lube new o-ring surfaces well with mineral oil-- then I mount front head (with old shaft seal still in it) and torque through bolts-- then I remove old shaft seal and clean area, and install new shaft seal- and re-install all components-- oh and if you have a switch in rear head- I install a new switch o-ring-- (they leak there as well).....

You get it down to under 30 minutes when you do about 3 a week!....

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

jluke42 on Wed August 03, 2011 9:46 PM User is offline

Thanks GM Tech!!!

You responded just the way I hoped you would. With your instructions and some attention to detail, I should be able to successfully reseal it. I will let you know the outcome, it may be awhile before I complete the repair.

Thanks again for your response and help.

Back to Automotive Air Conditioning Forum

We've updated our forums!
Click here to visit the new forum

Archive Home

Copyright © 2016 Arizona Mobile Air Inc.