Engine Size: 3.0
Refrigerant Type: r134
Ambient Temp: 90
I did not do my homework before purchasing the Arctic Freeze r134 from Advanced Auto and am wondering how bad I messed up my AC system. Prior to introducing the Arctic Freeze to my system the pressure was to low for the compressor to turn on. I have since located the leak in my system. It was the Evaporator (the dye was puddling out of the drain tube along with oil and water). Because I used the Arctic freeze do I now need to flush my entire system?? I have had no problems with the compressor and would like to keep from having to do a full flush. My condenser is parallel so I cant flush it properly.
My plans were to replace my evaporator, dryer and, expansion valve. Then vacuum the system and introduce only normal r134. Would this be alright for me to do? I am worried that I may have added to much extra oil because the arctic freeze has oil along with r134.
Thanks for the advice!
Also if I have a professional shop vacuum the system will that pull out the crap I just introduced into it? I suspect most of the coolant has already escaped because my compressor wouldnt work 12 hours after putting it in. Talk about tossing out $50!! When they vacuum the system do they also have to add oil back or does that stay in the compressor and dryer?
Let the tech know how much oil you added, since you do need to add oil back the system after changeling the evaporator and drier..But you should have them flush the system while they have it open, add back the correct amount and type of oil to the system before vac/recharge..
Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose
Never heard of Arctic Freeze R134a, but found this review on it.
"Its garbage. The sealant tends to take its toll on the condenser in the long term. It also has seal conditioners that gradually turn the rubber seals to mush.
I always use straight R-134a with the proper oil."
This country of ours no longer has consumer protection, FTC is history, if you have complaints, up to you to deal with the manufacturer and even take them to small claims court in instances like this. Could be far more serious with that cheap ass made in China low pressure gauge only if the system blows up in your face. I did get refunds from other manufacturers with faulty products with just a threat of a law suit. The consequences of having a congress consisting of attorneys that are trying to make more money for their brother attorneys. If an attorney is required, cost more that what the product or claim is worth. That is why they invented recycling so you have to pay to get rid of that piece of crap.
EPA doesn't get into this, only if the product doesn't contain HC's or CFC's is their concern, but still have to recover regardless. I can deal with private companies, but would love to sue our government for erroneously billing me for services that I never received. But you can't do that.
To deal with these companies, you really need to be an expert and prove your case, so most just bite the bullet and bare the expense.
With so many different grads of PAG on the market, how can they even claim to have a compatible oil? And how do they know your oil level is too low? Too much oil is just as bad as not enough for causing system damage. Their marketing scheme is based on pure ignorance of the consumer, with false claims.
More so than anything, would plan on changing your condenser and receiver, the rest of it can be cleaned up.
The main reason to flush is so you end up replacing all the oil-- this is the only way to be sure the amount of oil is proper. With a severe leak, it could have lost quite a bit of oil. At least remove the compressor, drain the oil and refill with the proper amount of new oil. Consider replacing the condenser if you don't have proper flushing equipment.
I think evaporator replacement will be simple, as most Japanese cars of that era were designed so the evaporator can come out through the glove box without taking the whole dash apart. Of course there would be exceptions.
If you're going to the trouble of cracking open every joint, might as well just go ahead and put brand new o-rings on them. I did this on our 96 Corolla the other night and it held 29.5" Hg vacuum for well over an hour after shutting off the pump.
Also I pretty much stay away from any type of automotive fluid with additives in them. I've only used standard oil, standard brake fluid, transmission fluid, coolant, and as of yesterday standard R134a that I got for $8 a can from Big Lots. I replace fluids regularly at standard intervals and I've never had a problem. My Integra has 303K miles on it and has all original AC components. It's only been vacuumed down and recharged once that I can recall, about 3 years ago when I had to remove the evaporator core in order to replace my heater core.
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