Engine Size: 3.8
Refrigerant Type: 134
Ambient Temp: 96
The dynamite is in the shed and bout ready to light under this vehicle. Really having a hard time. I bought the car used. Two years ago I paid a mechanic $1800 to replace the evap(leaking), txv, dryer, and compressor. Problem is he didn't flush the system. Old compressor seized. Since then the new compressor has been whinning for about six months and is not cooling very good. I'm sure compressor is about to go. I opened the system and jet black oil came out also on the suction line there is sticky black residue in the line. I'm trying to do this myself under a tall shade tree. My biggest problem is getting to everything. It has rear air and I can't seem to get to that unit to open and flush, so can I scrap the rear air and either get new suction and discharge lines, from a front air only van, or can I cut and solder the split off to the rear ac and keep those lines? The condensor has an auxillary condensor in front off the main I guess because of the rear ac it needed more area. Wouldn't that work, that is if I charge to a front air only specs.
And so, I have already bought new comp, dryer, txv, and condensor. You guys are the real pros and am waiting to hear ya.
If you want to remove the rear air from the loop. My approach would be to make some custom lines or pick up a set on Non rear a/c lines form a wrecking yard and have those rebuilt. Would need to check for fit of course.
I wouldn't remove the rear air. You have a lot of interior volume to cool, and without the rear air, the cabin just won't cool as well.
There are number of ways you can attack the rear fittings. First is soaking the fittings in PB blaster, WD-40, Liquid Wrench, etc. Second is heat, not too much because you're dealing with aluminum, and be careful of interior components - get everything out of the way - you don't want to burn or melt anything. Third is drilling a small hole on the flat side of the fitting nut, just enough to see the threads where you can inject PB blaster or whatever you prefer, then try loosening. Get started with a punch and regular drill bit, then finish with a drill with the point grinded down flat, to minimize penetration of the threads. You'll nick the threads a little, but they should be fine. You may need to make another hole 90 or 180 degrees to really get all the fluid in there. And do make sure to use anti-seize on the fittings upon reassembly, for future ease of service.
Of course, you can just replace the rear evaporator and hoses, they shouldn't be too expensive, but try the suggestions mentioned, and if that fails, you can always cut everything out.
You might also want to consider a filter, to avoid the possibility of repeat contamination, and lighting the fuse on that dynamite. Do be sure to flush the heck out of the evaporator if you're keeping it... though these back evaporators are starting to look like paralell flow or serpentine, and therefore probably won't flush well and should be replaced.
I assume you have (or have access to) a vacuum pump, manifold gauge set... and so forth.
Thanks Joe and TRB. Yes I have the pump and gauges I just became fasinated with AC, how it works and so on bought some books and learned basics but, after coming to this site (and I will donate) I have learned so much from you pros that I believe I can do it. My problem is getting to
the parts on this vehicle. I don't even see how to take the front lines off everything is so tight. The reason I was saying cut the rear air is we
hardly use it. Again, can't even get to the front lines to change out. I think it's give up time and take the parts back. I really thank you guys
for your input.
Give up? Absolutely not! Though if the parts you bought are chain store parts, and not quality from the site sponsor or Chrysler, then it might not be a bad idea to return them, but I still think you should proceed with the repair.
I agree working on a minivan is not fun, but it's not impossible either. If your engine compartment is a mess, now might be a good time to clean and degrease. Definitely makes the job a little nicer, easier to identify everything, and minimizes the entrants of contaminants during reassembly. Eliminate as many components as easily possible, and you'll probably be doing a lot of work from underneath the vehicle, and through the wheel wells (make sure the vehicle is well supported for safety). Spray every bolt and fitting with PB Blaster and allow a day or so to soak in to ease disassembly (and put anti-seize on during reassembly).
Donations are always welcome, and we can help you get the job done with correct factory procedures.
Joe thanks for the encouragement. Yes the parts were from chain-store. Took them back today. Right now I have seen enough of this van so I'm giving it a rest for a few days. I hate to be beat so I'm taking your shove in the back and go at it again soon. I'm going to go ahead and donate and I'll holler back when I fire up the will. Thanks again.
MR. Thanks for the forum support.
Always nice seeing folks help out the forum!
Probably a good idea to return the chain store parts anyway, unless you want to become an expert at A/C parts replacement... or play with those explosives in the shed. Best bet is to get quality parts from the site sponsor, or Chrysler dealer if you're swimming in money.
Here's info on the removal of the rear evaporator:
Supporters of the site rank high on my list, so here's a few extra tips per Chrysler factory service procedures:
Removal & Installation (Auxiliary Unit)
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Discharge A/C system, using approved refrigerant
recovery/recycling equipment. Disconnect A/C plumbing from unit. Raise and support
vehicle. Remove A/C lines at lower floor pan flange. Remove 3 nuts securing unit to floor.
2. Lower vehicle. Remove right rear quarter trim panel and "D" pillar trim. Remove screws
securing air distribution duct to rear wheel housing. Pinch off heater hoses and disconnect
from heater core. Remove quarter trim panel mounting bracket. Remove blower motor wire
3. Remove rear upper duct trim screw. Remove 2 housing mounting bolts. Pull up on A/C duct
and tilt unit outward. Lift unit high enough to clear floor pan and remove from vehicle.
4. To install, reverse removal procedure. Install new "O" rings on refrigerant lines. Fill heater
core before installation. Evacuate and charge A/C system. Check system for any leaks.
UNDERBODY REFRIGERANT LINES
Removal (Auxiliary Unit)
1. Discharge A/C system, using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment. Raise and
support vehicle. Disconnect line fittings from lines in engine compartment. Remove
plumbing pipe-to-expansion valve bolt. Pull refrigerant lines downward, being careful not to
scratch sealing surface on expansion valve.
2. Remove refrigerant line supports. Disconnect parking brake cable from hook above muffler,
and at support rails (if necessary). Remove refrigerant lines. Drain oil from each end of
refrigerant lines, and record amount drained for installation reference.
1. To install, reverse removal procedure. Use new gaskets and "O" rings. Coat "O" rings with
refrigerant oil before installing. Align expansion valve with plumbing pipe, and use a new
gasket. Tighten plumbing pipe-to-expansion valve bolt to 19 ft. lbs. (26 N.m).
2. Add new refrigerant oil to line; add same amount as drained. Tighten line fittings in engine
compartment to 16 ft. lbs. (22 N.m). To install remaining components, reverse removal
3. Evacuate and charge A/C system with proper amount of refrigerant. Perform calibration test
procedure. See ACTUATOR CALIBRATION, DIAGNOSTICS & COOL-DOWN TESTS under PROGRAMMING.
To get the the front TXV, looks like all you need to do is move the alternator out of the way. Granted it's tight, but with the alternator out of the way it should be much easier. To get at the compressor, you'll probably want to remove the upper radiator hose, and maybe the heater hoses to the rear unit.
Also, there's a TSB on this vehicle (24-19-99) relating to suction and discharge lines cracking near the compressor due to the compressor not being torqued properly. Make sure the three mounting bolts are torqued to 40 ft lbs.
We can probably get you through anything else you might need help with... and it'll be a lot less than $1,800, and since you're doing it yourself you can be sure it'll be done right.
Wow Joe, that's priceless info to a guy who's been beat. Well I know I can do this and when I finish it will be a clean system, vacuumed, charged right, I have scales, all new parts and a proud customer. I sincerely thank you sir.
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