Country of Origin: United States
I have a 2001 Honda Civic LX The A/C worked fine until I did a headgasket and new radiator. Now it just wont blow cold air. So I checked the fuse and check the relays. They all look good so I thought it maybe is low on freon so I got a can that had a gage on it and when I put it on the low side it said high pressure. So I looked at the compressor and when I hit the a/c in the car I dont hear the clutch engage. I don't know where to start to fix it. I need help Thanks
Do the radiator fans start when you press the A/C button? That will show if the controls are trying to turn the compressor on. If they don't start, check that the plug on the pressure switch on the receiver is secure. If they do start, check if the compressor clutch wire is getting power when it's supposed to engage.
The fans do start when I hit the a/c button. I found a wire clip by the fan that hooked to the compressor and I unclipped and tested it their and when I hit the a/c button I do get power to their. Is that what you mean on testing the compressor? Thanks
OK good that the car is trying to turn the compressor on. Next check the compressor for continuity. It should be 3 to 4 ohms from the wire to ground. Since the compressor is getting power but not engaging, it has to be something on the compressor itself: clutch coil, thermal protector, ground connections-- or the coil does energize but the clutch doesn't pull in because the gap is too wide.
Edited: Thu July 14, 2011 at 7:26 AM by mk378
If the system was working and cooling before the head gasket replacement then check the connector for the A/C clutch. It's very common miss connecting the connector for the A/C clutch when assembling all the parts after having removed the head. Find power wire at the A/C clutch and trace it back to the connector. Make certain it's hooked up. If it's hooked up then do as mk378 suggested and check resistance.
I've already done a search!
Thanks so much guys. When you say test the wire do you mean the other side of the plug I tested? I only see one plug that comes from the compressor? Thanks
It should be a one-wire plug that mates together to supply the compressor from the car harness. Unplug and test the compressor side.
I set my meter to ohms and I put one in the connector on the compressor and the other on a ground and I tried many times and different meters and I get nothing at all the meter don't even change? Im doing something wrong? Thanks
Is it odd for me not to get a reading?
Touch both probes on ground the meter should go to near zero, proving your meter works. Then if it still just shows the single 1 with one on the compressor wire and one on ground, that means the compressor is open circuit.
On top of the compressor, the wire from the car should go to the thermal protector first then the thermal protector goes to the coil. There should be a plug between them so you can unplug and test the protector and the coil separately. The two wires on the protector should be zero ohms to each other. The coil should be 3 or 4 ohms to ground. Note that there is a black wire coming out of the coil to ground it, the ground lug could be a bad connection, or the compressor not in good contact with the bracket and the engine so the ground is open circuit.
Ok I don't understand what is going on here . I have tested all the wires and I don't get anything. The only thing that happens is there are two wires a black and red one coming from the clutch and their a little metal clip that looks like it holds the wires with a Philips screw when I have the meter with one touching ground and the other touching this little wire holder with a Philips screw the meter read 0000
Here is a pic and I put a arrow where it reads
Your arrow points to a clip that is just there to physically hold the wires down. It is not part of the circuit.
Test between the male plug on the red wire that goes to to the clutch, and the ground ring terminal on the black wire that was grounded(*). Should be 3 to 4 ohms, if not, coil is bad. Then test between the female plug for the red wire and the red wire that plugs into the car. Should be approximately zero ohms. If not, thermal protector is bad.
(*) There should be a bolt holding the ring terminal on the black wire, and the thermal protector clip to the compressor frame to ground it. I assume that you removed it for testing.
Let me start off by thinking you for your help. Ok when I tested the male red end and the black ground ring I get nothing the meter dont change. The female red end and the plug end that plugs in the car I get 0000 on the meter
The clutch coil seems to be bad then.
Is this rare for it to go out? Where is a cheap place to get a new one and are they hard to install? Thanks
If you really have an operational ohmmeter, and you really get "infinite resistance" across your electromagnetic AC clutch coil (and no clicking in when you jump 12 volts positive to that lead wire), then it sure sounds like the AC clutch coil is bad.
Unless you are very lucky and have access on your vehicle to this with the AC compressor still in the car and the lines still connected, most people just swap out for a complete new compressor with clutch if the compressor must come out of the car.
I can get to it pretty easy I think. What holds the clutch on?
I got the coil on but how do I put the pully back? Thanks
Pulley - snap ring - hub.
Thanks is the hub a tool you rent? I got one from Oreillys and non of the tools fit the tread on the hondas Compressor?
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