Engine Size: 3.0
Refrigerant Type: R-134a
Country of Origin: United States
I started to rebuild the A/C system last summer because of heater core leak and a strong odor coming from the vents, but couldn't finish before the weather got cold.Up till now. I've replaced the heater core,evaporator, lines,( had problems getting after market lines to fit, so I send my original a/c lines to AMA to flush them should in case) drier,condenser,and expansion valve all replaced . Compressor flushed and refilled 5 oz, drier 1oz, evaporator and condenser about 0.5 each (I think) with DEC oil.
Took the van to the shop to recharged the system, during recharging the compressor began to make high grinding noise,the tech told me I need a new compressor after he couldn't stop the grinding noise.
The compressor never behaved like that before I took it there, anyway with all the money spent on parts,I almost
replaced the compressor before I tool it to the shop,I wish I did . The shop discharged some of the freon out from the system but not all so it gets a little cool but not cold when the a/c is on with the compressor grinding noise.
I know I need a new compressor,however, do I need a new condenser too?
I read this on another A/C site: "If the compressor failed for any reason then I would replace the condenser. The reason why is that all the pieces of compressor that came apart where lodged in the condenser and no flushing in the world can get it out. I donÃ¢ÂÂt recommend flushing but thatÃ¢ÂÂs another story."
I drove the van for some miles hoping that the noise will somehow go away but never did.
Now where do I start? Thanks in advance for your response.
It really bothers me a lot to failed to document the exact amount of dec oil poured into the evaporator and the condenser.I think 0.5 each but not completely sure. If I need to replace the condenser,I know I'll not miss remembering the exact amount,but how woul I know the exact amount of dec oil poured into theevaporator? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks .
To my knowledge, you do not need to add oil directly to the condenser or the evaporator. Unless this is some way to flush out the chemical used for flushing (I've never had to do a component flush). Some people add an ounce of oil to the suction accumulator, so that on a system with all new components, the first initial gas that travels back to the compressor will have more oil entrained in it for lubrication.
If my compressor failed, I wouldn't tear the condenser out and replace it with a brand new one. I'd flush it out or blow it out with nitrogen the best I could. But I'm a cheap bastard. I'd be more concerned about an orifice tube, or orifice of a TXV getting plugged up. And I'd be spending some money on a new drier.
I'd definitely stop using the AC right now though.
There is no knowledge that is not power
$100.00 dollars for a new condenser. Or follow Hecats tech article on flushing. These type of condensers are not the easiest to flush and remove all the flushing agent.
Thanks for your inputs, yes, I keep hearing about how hard it is to flush debris out of some type of condensers,so I guess it makes sense to buy a new one to avoid future compressor failure. Mine is brand new,the first use was when I drove the van to the shop to recharge the system. this past Saturday, ouch.
Both alldata and mitchell1 diy says to add 1 oz of a/c oil to the drier , 2 oz to the evaporator, and 1oz to the condenser before install(mitchelle1).
Some of you guys here are very knowledgeable about a/c diagnosis stuff. if only your shops are closer,even one hundred miles away from new york, I'll drive to you to have my van a/c check and fix.It is not easy to find reputable tech who knows what he 's doing fix your vehicle.I'm sure there care plenty around,but how do you find them?
Well, back to shopping for a/c parts again.(Compressor,drier,condenser and dec a/c oil)
Thanks again gus.
Consider giving us a shot to match any prices you find.
The oil amounts per part are approximate guesses for replacing just one or two parts and leaving the rest with the old oil. When you start with a dry system (all parts flushed or replaced with new), use the total oil spec instead of the sum of the per part numbers.
The oil distributes itself quickly- you don't need to scientifically prime a little in each part- make sure the compressor has plenty since that's the only part that needs oil. Get as much refrigerant in as you can before starting the compressor the first time. With a low charge the oil doesn't move around and can leave the compressor dry.
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