Model: S10 Blazer 4x4
Engine Size: 4.3W
Refrigerant Type: R134
Ambient Temp: 90
Country of Origin: United States
I need to do a proper conversion of R12 to R134 on my 93 S10 Blazer. I say proper because before I found this site I used an upgrade 'kit' which was just some R134a adapters and some R134a refrigerant that supposedly contained compatible oil. No need to tell me how I should have stayed away from this. That's in the past and done with.
The compressor worked but soon (over a few weeks) the clutch quit engaging from an apparent leak. The air didn't work when I bought it so it must have had an existing leak.
I am going to replace the orifice tube and the drier. I am going to remove the compressor and drain the oil and run PAG150 through it a couple of times while manually turning the clutch several revolutions between each drain. And I would like to add the inline filter.
So, I am looking to get the needed parts from ackits.com and see items CP3010 - o ring kit and CP3016 - also named an o-ring kit. Both o-kits say they are for R16 and R134a systems. CP3016 has an additional description of GM Sealing washer assortment.
Do I need the o-ring kit AND those washers?
Is the Nylog blue thread sealant needed?
Should I put a white orifice tube back in or go to another color? (I've read that yellow may be a better choce on a retrofit).
Are driers independent of the refrigerant being used? I see the only option for drier is 37-23207.
Should I replace the - Switch - Compressor Cycle Pressure Cut-Off, item # 29-30401? It says it's adjustable but the description of it describes it as being on the R16 drier. Will this still work with a retrofit?
Is the 13128TSI universal inline filter easy to install? Can the filter be cleaned/replaced without opening the system and losing refrigerant (or needing to have it evacuated)?
Do I need - 57807MD - Low - High pressure Cut-off Switch. If so, how is it installed and where do I hook that harness up for power?
I have read that PAG150 is so susceptible to moisture that it starts attracting moisture the second the bottle is opened, such as needing to put some in the compressor before putting the rest inline. What is the best/proper procedure to put oil in the system as I'm putting everything back together?
Put the system under pressure and check for the leak before taking anything apart. GM compressor shaft seals commonly leak.
Both kits are needed. One for the hose connections and the sealing washer kit for the compressor.
Nylog Blue is for PAG oils.
OT: Personal opinion.
29-30401 But adjustable Same as the one currently on the vehicle.
Yes - No
SNAP calls for a HPCO switch on conversions. Yet vendors no longer off the fitting. When we run out it going to a lot harder to add a HPCO switch.
Oil - Use a DEC PAG or a POE such as the BVA Auto Glo. Just capped everything after you add oil while finishing you project.
As mk378 states. Need to know what you problem is before making wholesale changes.
Ok, thanks to all who replied.
I will identify location of leak then order parts from ackits. Hopefully I won't have to order a compressor too.
Is the shaft seal easily replaceable by an average handyman?
so what about the inline filter? instructions on installing? can it be cleaned/replaced without losing refrigerant?
the same drier is used for r16 and r134a?
Filter is not cleanable nor can it be removed without recovering the refrigerant.
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