Engine Size: 3.0
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Ambient Temp: 90
Country of Origin: United States
A/C was working fine until recently. Sat for a few days and now does not blow cold air. The system has refrigerant, the compressor engages without cycling or noises. @90+ degrees ambient the static pressure was over 80 and I did not notice a change with the compressor engaged(I only have a pressure gage that comes with the 134 charge kits). The high and low lines are both warm-no difference in temperature. If I set the temp to high the air gets hot, but is only outside temp at coldest setting. I can also see some small bubbles passing the sight glass.
I'm going to get a set of gauges to read the high side pressure, but any suggestions of where to look would be appreciated.
The system does have refrigerant, or maybe air, or maybe a little bit of both. That's all static pressure will tell. Only way to be sure is recover, weight, and charge to spec. I'm showing only 28 oz for this vehicle, so there's not a whole lot of room for error.
Get some full pressure readings and we can revisit.
So not to look at a non-factor, I had removed some of the refrigerant(before I understood about the static pressure) to drop the pressure to its current pressure and there has been no pressure change since, i.e. the system has no leaks. Static pressure was reading about 37 for both high and low at a temp around 80. With compressor engaged High side rose to about 47-49 and low side dropped to about 37-39-both sides were constantly fluctuating between the 2 values and there was no cycling of the clutch. I can add refrigerant back into the system to increase pressure if needed-I was just hesitant to add in case I have to remove a component.
No way you can have high side pressures 47-49 and low side pressures of 37-39 - unless your system is totally screwed up beyond belief. System would have to be nearly empty and the compressor about 99% dead. Was sealer ever added to the system?
only thing added to system was the stated amt of oil and 134a refrigerant purchased( cans included some sealer/booster agents-only a partial can was used that contained the sealer agent and the larger can only had booster).
just noticed the typo...low side was supposed to read 27-29 with high at 47-49 with compressor engaged.
Either your gauges are done, your system is done, or both. Another recharge kit kills yet another system.
Boosters, sealants, conditioners... all crap and all end up ruining systems. At this point, the vehicle is probably a TSR (Total System Replacement) candidate.
I agree with JJM. The only thing that should ever touch the inside of your AC system is refrigerant and oil.
At 45 high side pressure, you are never going to condense into liquid at ambient temperature. All you're doing is (poorly) circulating warm refrigerant gas through the system.
My guess is the compressor is shot. If you're looking at 80 static pressure, and you turn the AC on and the compressor engages, you should see an immediate change in pressures. Low side dropping too low, or high side rising too high, are indications of something else going wrong elsewhere, but bottom line is that pressures should change (and the difference between high/low should be significant) when you cycle that compressor on.
Also, when you're pressure testing, keep in mind pressures will always depend on ambient conditions. If you pressure test in the morning, come back in the afternoon when it's hot out, and see the same pressure, you can still have a small leak somewhere.
There is no knowledge that is not power
Thx guys. ended up taking the compressor out as I could hear a clunking noise when rotating the compressor by hand.
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Now the question at this point is what kind of sealer was used? If the sealer was an O-ring conditioner (which seals leaks by swelling the rubber components), you might be able to get away with a firewall forward system replacement: compressor, condenser, TXV, lines (more due to age), dryer, a thorough flush of the evaporator, and an inline filter:
If the sealer is basically a "glue" type sealer, then the evaporator will have to go to. Probably best to replace it, but it is a much bigger job than everything else.
I wish you arrived here sooner, the system probably could've been saved by repairing the leak, replacing the dryer, adding a bit of oil, vacuum, and recharge (with pure R-134a).
hello i have kinda the same problem . I have a 2001 volkswagen beetle blows warm air ,compressor is spinning , fans are spinning, lines are under hood temps and borrowed a gauge low side was pretty high don't remember psi ambient temp was 75 if you guys could help that would be great
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