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AC rear block kit

Bob on Sat May 14, 2011 7:28 PM User is offlineView users profile

Year: 2005
Make: dodge
Model: grand caravan
Engine Size: 3.8
Refrigerant Type: R134a

Second year in a row that the back AC unit has leaked. Is there a way to block the lines to the back? There are bass couplers under the passenger seat for both the high and low side supplies. Can you block it there? Tim, do you have a kit for that or is that a custom build?

Thanks

TRB on Sun May 15, 2011 11:16 AM User is offlineView users profile

We do not offer a kit to seal those lines off. Easy way would be to weld shut the fittings that are there. Either destroy the current hose section or get another from the wrecking yard.

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

GM Tech on Sun May 15, 2011 12:08 PM User is offline

Here is a link to some guys who sell them---I guess it is okay since it won't compete with Tim.......

Rear a/c block off kits

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

TRB on Sun May 15, 2011 12:12 PM User is offlineView users profile

$70.00 for a couple fittings. Dang I need to make some of those up.

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

Bob on Mon May 16, 2011 12:34 PM User is offlineView users profile

Just thought of something. Would blocking those ports have any bad effects on refrigerant flow?

ice-n-tropics on Mon May 16, 2011 12:50 PM User is offline

Bob,
The rear suction hose will permanently fill with oil and the liquid line will have maybe 20 to 50% oil fill (depending on conditions).
Therefore an extra oil charge quantity would be prudent for compressor reliability.
Cordially,
hotrodac

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Isentropic Efficiency=Ratio of Theoretical Compression Energy/Actual Energy.
AMAZON.com: How To Air Condition Your Hot Rod

NickD on Mon May 16, 2011 1:22 PM User is offline

Ha, how my attitude has changed over the years, wasn't happy unless my vehicles had every conceivable option. Now if I don't have it, don't have problems with it, but still manage to get where I am going.

Like that site that GMtech posted, having problems with it? Don't fix it, get rid of it.

This fix would be tantamount to my 41 Chevy where my passengers would be fighting over who sits in the front passenger seat to stay warm. But in this instance, to stay cool.

Edited: Mon May 16, 2011 at 1:25 PM by NickD

Bob on Mon May 16, 2011 4:28 PM User is offlineView users profile

Thanks guys. How much extra oil should I use?

ice-n-tropics on Tue May 17, 2011 5:28 PM User is offline

Nick,
Heater in my 1938 Chevy (Standard with solid front axle) convertible was worthless and the rumble seat would be a really a cold blast. Did a frame off restoration with a hot water 6 and no sycronizers (double clutching).

Chry Van oil:
WAG is 3.5 oz. extra lube.
Cordially,
hotrodac


-------------------------
Isentropic Efficiency=Ratio of Theoretical Compression Energy/Actual Energy.
AMAZON.com: How To Air Condition Your Hot Rod

Big W on Wed May 18, 2011 12:17 AM User is offline

I have messed with making rear ac block kits for several years and it was always a pain. By the time I found some parts and either welded them or brazed them up I would have so much time into making them it wasnt worth it. I would easily have $70 in time and effort into the whole thing. The block kits the web site lists REAR AC BLOCK KITS are by far a much more simple and less time consuming method of blocking the rear ac on vehiclesREAR AC BLOCK KITS I have bought many of these kits from this company and has saved me tons of time and effort. I wouldnt even consider making them myself anymore

Just my opinion

GM Tech on Wed May 18, 2011 9:07 AM User is offline

If you know of a good aluminum welder, I do it by simply cutting aluminum lines about 2 inches back of the rear liquid and return lines (where they Tee in)- then squeeze the pipe shut in a vice, then have my welder buddy put a bead of aluminum weld across the squeezed shut seam- works every time-- I call them "stubbies" Since it is only 2 inches long, I don't worry about oil and/or refrigerant collecting in them.

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

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