Engine Size: 4.9
Refrigerant Type: R12
I have a 1987 Ford F150 that someone put R134A in. The compressor went out and I this truck back on R12, but this truck has ester oil in it, and needs mineral for R12. I have a 30lb cylinder of R12, so why not convert back. How much would a shop charge to flush this system out, if I bring it to them with the compressor disconnected, and the accumulator, and orifice tube removed from the truck? The shops where I live won't give me a estimate over the phone, and I don't feel like wasting $30 worth of gas riding around all afternoon to shop after shop. One more question, someone had a yellow orifice tube in this truck. Aren't fords supposed to have either a blue or a red one?
Edited: Thu September 16, 2010 at 4:18 PM by joe1431
We would get close to $200.00 plus shop supplies. I think your pricing will very on the quality of flushing equipment being used. We use the Hecat H1000 with Genesolv flush.
The truck should have a red orifice tube. When converting to R134a, it is common practice to use a different orifice tube to try and change the low side pressure and help the system cool better. In very few cases does this actually get the vehicle to cool like it would with R12. The problem lies in the condensers internal design, not the orifice tube diameter.
Would it hurt the compressor at all if any residual ester oil remained, if I put the correct amount of mineral oil back in. Most 6oz of oil came out of the accumulator and it was green. Someone must of used a lot of stop leak and dye. I don't want black death from the 2 oils reacting with each other. There were no metal shavings in the system at all, it was just the compressor clutch that went out. Wouldn't catch and spin the compressor even jumping it straight to the battery.
Edited: Thu September 16, 2010 at 4:35 PM by joe1431
I would recommend "flushing" the compressor with mineral oil. Put some in there, turn the clutch a few times, drain. Repeat this a couple times to ensure all of the ester oil is out. Green oil doesn't always mean lots of die and sealer. Our BVA Auto 100 Oil is green with dye already in it. It is also compatable with either R12 or R134a.
Check out http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=01&Category_Code=Ford87Truckfs4-9 for an extra 180 bucks, can dump all that old crap and replace with new.
Must be getting old and tired, did pull all that stuff out, go to NAPA and buy real lacquer thinner, that stuff they sell at hardware stores is anything but lacquer thinner. Do a rain dance, shake, rattle, and roll, several more times, than blow it out. But then always have problems with corroded fittings trying to prevent leaks. Or even like in your case, over 23 years old and ready to fall apart.
As Chick so often said, where is Chick? Just my opinion. Shoot me down, ha, been shot before, use to it.
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