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Chev. G20 Manifold Hose

sdr on Sat May 22, 2010 4:12 PM User is offline

Year: 1989
Make: Chevrolet
Model: G20 Beauville
Engine Size: 5.7L
Refrigerant Type: R12

Without Rear A/C

I replaced the leaking shaft seal on the original (1989) R4 compressor. The good news is that the shaft seal is no longer the major leak, the compressor body o-rings are. Plan B - I bought a new AC Delco compressor and it is partially installed. There are two problems both associated with the manifold hose. The AC Delco compressor is different from the original (1989) R4. The original has 5/8" suction and discharge openings. The new compressor has 5/8" discharge and a 3/4" suction. Also the manifold mating surfaces in the new compressor are not in the same plane. The seal kit with the new compressor includes two aluminum inserts. According to the directions, I should use the short insert in the discharge line since the hose block configuration is the "flat face hose block with short pilots". The first question is, should the insert be a snug fit in the hose block? The directions state, "tap aluminum inserts into block until seated". That sounds like a snug fit, but in mine it is a loose fit. I also have a compressor seal kit from ackits.com with two inserts in it and both are a loose fit as well. Any ideas?

Also, I was going to replace the receiver/drier. It seemed like a good idea at the time. But the tube nut was seized on the receiver outlet. I used some PBlaster and other home remedies but it didn't help. I was successful at removing the nut, but it has some aluminum stuck in the threads. I see that ackits.com shows a replacement manifold hose but I haven't checked on the availability yet. It will be a struggle to remove the aluminum with picks and scribes. Are there any other options to remove the aluminum from the nut?

Thanks.

TRB on Sat May 22, 2010 8:50 PM User is offlineView users profile

Inserts and sealing washer should do the trick. Might need different ones then those that come with the compressor.

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

GM Tech on Sat May 22, 2010 10:51 PM User is offline

I've never used the inserts--they are for centering the pipe in the manifold if the pipe does not have its own "slip into the compressor pilots"-- here's a big hint-- the red sealing washer goes over the discharge pilot, then I generally just use a basic sealing washer for the suction side..

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

sdr on Sat May 22, 2010 10:56 PM User is offline

Thanks for your response. Do you think I need a different kit than CP3016, GM Sealing Washers 04 & Prior? I have that in addition to the sealing washers and inserts that came with the new compressor. None of the inserts are a press fit into the manifold block. The sealing washers that came with the compressor seem like they would work fine.

Do you have any suggestions for the problem with the tube nut that connects to the receiver outlet?

Thanks.

TRB on Sat May 22, 2010 11:16 PM User is offlineView users profile

That kit should have the combo you need.

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

sdr on Sat May 22, 2010 11:32 PM User is offline

GMTech: Thanks. Excellent suggestion. The thickness difference between the red washer and a basic sealing washer is about the same as between the green and yellow washers that the directions call for. The red washer would reduce the gap between the manifold block and the compressor head by about 0.060". But if you use it, that's good enough for me. Now do you have any suggestions on the tube nut that connects to the receiver outlet?

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