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94 chevrolet silverado acr2000 flush adaptor

TucsonVTXF on Fri May 21, 2010 11:45 AM User is offline

Year: 1994
Make: chevy
Model: silverado
Engine Size: v-6
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Country of Origin: United States

getting ready to replace a compressor on a 94 chevy silverado.
what is the right flush adaptor to use with my acr2000?
I just bought the kent moore flush adaptor kit and want to make sure i have the right adaptor with it.
Also does the acr2000 do a good job flushing out the system if it is really a black death?
any idea's and comments are welcome? thanks>>>>>>>>>>

GM Tech on Fri May 21, 2010 11:52 AM User is offline



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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

TucsonVTXF on Fri May 21, 2010 11:55 AM User is offline

roger that will do that first when i get my hands on the truck> just getting my ducks in a row for the worst case.....

GM Tech on Fri May 21, 2010 11:55 AM User is offline

So what does the orifice tube look like? I'd base my flushing decision on that...

Other than that, use the flushing adapter that fits your compressor manifold-- pull the OT out and reconnect the lines so you are not flushing through it....

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

HECAT on Fri May 21, 2010 6:14 PM User is offline

GM,

My opinions aside, and not wanting to engage in debate; rather wanting to better understand.

If the OT was black and gooey with no metal, you would...?

If the OT was black and gooey with metal fines, you would...?

Which way do you flush through the system from the compressor manifold?

Do you flush through the old Accumulator and install a new one later?

I would appreciate your thoughts.

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HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

GM Tech on Fri May 21, 2010 7:19 PM User is offline

If OT is clean I would not flush- that's why I would check it first- to decide whether or not to flush

I use an A/D bypass pipe or hose- whichever is needed from my homemade arsenal- replace A/D if flushing was needed-

I would not flush for a leak- and a clean OT

I personally rarely see black and gooey OTs -- since the old DA-6s or perhaps a Ford black death unit

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

HECAT on Sat May 22, 2010 6:40 AM User is offline

Thanks GM,

I understand you are not seeing a lot of gooey OT's, and that you determine flushing is not necessary with many of the repair issues you see. I have read the ACR2000 instructions (vague) and the GM procedures. I do have a few more questions, as I am trying to gain some practical and experienced application information of this RRR machine flushing method.

If I understand correctly, and if you did determine a need to flush out waste oils; you would remove the OT and reconnect the pipes, remove the A/D and install bypass tube, and connect to the RRR machine to the compressor manifold. My question regarding this specific scenario is regarding the flushing direction (liquid flow); which way and and your opinion as to why?

I would also assume (hate to do that) that in the case of a known catastrophic compressor failure (lots of metal fines in the OT) you would replace the condenser, and flush the remainder of the system the same way as above; with the exception of connecting the RRR machine to the compressor suction line and the condenser liquid discharge line; is this correct?





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HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

GM Tech on Sat May 22, 2010 11:15 AM User is offline

Metal fragments only in the OT-- I find it easiest to just install a new OT and new compressor (with a screen in the suction port) then run the system for 15 or 20 minutes, then check the OT again- this is on the HT- suction reed failures, sometimes referred to as the "imploded" failures. the suction screen in the compressor never collects any fragments- none get by the OT and don't get near the compressor- the screen is just my idea of a safety-- I use the suction screen designed for the V-5- works great on HT-6s. I've replaced probably a 100 that have failed in this manner- and never had a comeback for a destroyed new compressor.

I never replace condenser unless there is a head pressure issue- or it leaks- I have a lot of trouble replacing parts just without good reason- If I start getting condenser restriction issues, then I'll flush it or replace it as necessary. But I haven't had an issue for a long time. Each case, I look for what is really going on. The total cost stays lower this way.


-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

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