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Evaporator Testing

hjc149 on Sat April 03, 2010 2:55 PM User is offlineView users profile

Country of Origin: United States

I'm looking for a way to pressure/vacuum test an evaporator both in (lines disconnected) and out of the car. Any inexpensive ideas will be appreciated.

Edited: Sat April 03, 2010 at 5:49 PM by hjc149

iceman2555 on Sat April 03, 2010 9:35 PM User is offlineView users profile

Simply remove the refrigerant. Flush the evaporator thoroughly to remove residual lubricants. Lubricants may 'coat' internal sections and prohibit a proper leak test.
It may be necessary to fabricate connections for the inlet and outlet of the evap. Most parts houses sell fitting to manufacture hose assemblies, these end pieces can be used to test the evap.
Obtain two HVAC schrader valve connections. Place the schrader valve fitting into the line fitting. JB Weld works well as a bonding agent. Evac the evap and test for a vac leak. Should not loose more that 2 in/hg in 5 minutes. Then charge the evap with 134a and retest. If necessary warm the evap with a heat gun (if out of the vehicle) or use the heater core to warm (if still in vehicle). Always preferred both test, one at ambient temps and one with the core temperature increased. Increasing the temp of the evap increases the pressure within the evap and may enhance the test procedure.
Testing with air is not a valid test. Evaps will leak refrigerant and not leak air.
Dye in a system may not test positive on an evap...the evap sweating may wash the dye away.

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Thomas Jefferson

HECAT on Sun April 04, 2010 7:15 AM User is offline

If you need a way to connect for flushing and testing many different evaporators; you could use this


HECAT: You support the Forum when you consider for your a/c parts.


hjc149 on Mon April 05, 2010 3:48 PM User is offlineView users profile

Thank you.

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