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Leaking Compressor

gusgriff on Fri March 19, 2010 8:55 AM User is offlineView users profile

Year: 1988
Make: BMW
Model: 53IS
Engine Size: 3.5L
Refrigerant Type: R12
Country of Origin: United States

Bosch compressor leaking oil. The freon seems to be find but will check further this weekend.. Do not know where leak is. From what I have read, it could be the shaft seal, hose connection and/or schrader valves. I plan to find the dye and chase down leak. Can the unit be refilled until I can afford a proper rebuild? If yes what is procedure? I would like to rebuild the compressor myself but I do not have all the equipment are parts needed.

Edited: Fri March 19, 2010 at 9:13 AM by gusgriff

TRB on Fri March 19, 2010 12:11 PM User is offlineView users profile

All depends on the size of the leak. Not worth the cost if the refrigerant is going to leak out in a day. Evacuate and charging procedures are listed in the tips section on this forum. Best to find and repair the leak so you have a properly working system.

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gusgriff on Fri March 19, 2010 5:33 PM User is offlineView users profile

I agree if a big leak but does not appear to be. It is not the schrader valves and hoses look clean. Suspect the shaft seal. Seal probaly dry due to car sitting in garage for 8+ years. System was empty so evacuated to clean a little and it seems to be a slow leak so added 2-3 lbs. R-134A. System worked but for how long no idea. Getting new oil, seals, sealant and dye before purchasing a new compressor. Maybe seals will remoisturize and last through summer but not holding my breath.

Edited: Fri March 19, 2010 at 5:38 PM by gusgriff

HECAT on Sat March 20, 2010 8:10 AM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: gusgriff
System was empty so evacuated to clean a little and it seems to be a slow leak so added 2-3 lbs. R-134A. Getting new oil, seals, sealant and dye before purchasing a new compressor.

Just some thought based upon your comments. Evacuating will remove air and some moisture; but it does not clean. Charging the proper amount of refrigerant is critical to proper oil migration (i.e. compressor lubrication). With system now charged you should be able to pinpoint the leak. If the compressor shaft seal has failed, I would change the compressor now. It is going to be easier to clean out the old oils now, than when the old compressor grenades and fills the system with metal debris. Make sure you add a new filter/dryer to your list.

Do not put any sealant in the system!

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FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

gusgriff on Sat March 20, 2010 12:05 PM User is offlineView users profile

Need to verify sometime I was told. I was told the R-134A may cause the original R-12 system dessicant cannister to rupture and the crystal may play havoc. Also told the remaining mineral oil does not mix well with R-134a and won't circulate in the system. What are the chances this can occur?

The system was originally R-12 and adding the R-134A was a test just to see if the system worked and to check much much it leaked. It was done on the spur of the moment. We did not have any dye to put in system to do a better check. I have the dye and equipment to add now. If there is a big risk maybe I should recovery the R-134A and put the R-12 I have back in to do the test. I agree this would waste the R-12 if the leak does persist. I do not like either venting to the environment but the R-1134a is suppose to be less harmful.

Do you work for ACKITS/Arizona Modbile Air? I called yesterday to see if they coulld rebuild my compresser (Bosch) and was told they would check with the Florida shop that rebuilds these for them but I did not get a return call.

TRB on Sun March 21, 2010 12:00 AM User is offlineView users profile

I believed I answered you email today. Our remanufacture uses seal that work with both R12 & R134a. Yes it can rupture and I won't get into the odds. I would never use an R12 accumulator/drier with R134a. Yet they have conversion kits on the market that say use their refrigerant and a 2 ounce bottle of oil and all will be good. I don't buy it but that's my opinion.

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

gusgriff on Sun March 21, 2010 12:26 AM User is offlineView users profile

Thanks for the email and this reply. As you know I ordering the new drier today. I do not know for sure but the system seems to be holding at 45psi but in the morning it will be rechecked. The UV dye, what little seen, is at a hose connection at the front top of the compressor. I see none on the compressor itself. If it seems to hold, once the drier, o-rings and Nylog arrive, the system will be evacuated and flushed, new PAG oil will be added and it will be charged with R-134a. If it does not leak after that, great. If it leaks out slowly, I can recharge just to get it to last a few months. If it leaks out in a week, I will do it again with a new compressor.

NOTE: What number PAG oil do you suggest. I hear it is preferred over ester oil.

Edited: Sun March 21, 2010 at 12:28 AM by gusgriff

TRB on Sun March 21, 2010 1:09 AM User is offlineView users profile

Nope on a retro I use the BVA Autoglow POE. Actually I use that in almost everything. But some with argue that PAG is better for OEM systems.

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

gusgriff on Mon March 22, 2010 5:47 PM User is offlineView users profile

The compressor is leaking a little. The dye shows a leak at the very bottom in the clutch area between the pulley and the bolt flange. The hose is not leaking. The glow I saw on the fitting was very faint and could be another material that floresses under UV light. The glow contrast with the leaking dye was like a 100watt bulb versus a 5watt bulb. I saw several other surfaces around the engine that floressed the same small amount and I know these were not this dye. I will check it daily as well as the system pressure to get an idea of the leak rate. It it leaks and des not reseal we both know the next step but I really want a brake and suspension rework first. say-la-vee



Edited: Mon March 22, 2010 at 5:54 PM by gusgriff

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