Engine Size: 2.4
Refrigerant Type: 134
Country of Origin: United States
the AC stoped working on my honda today, The compressor clutch does not click on so I finger I have a leak. I looked at the system lines and at the HI & LOW pressure schrader vales have alot of dirt caked on them I suspect that is the source of the leak. I will try to post a pic of it. My question is should I just replace the two lines and the dryer or may I have a bigger problem like a blockage do to the HI & LOW pressure both leaking at the same time. Any help you guys can give me would be appreciated thanks
OK, I'm not an AC pro.
But I definitely would NOT replace the lines because of "a guess". The proper thing I'd say would be to evacuate the system, add the correct amount of refrigerant by weight, add some UV dye, soap solution, or electronic leak detector and FIND the source of the leak, don't guess. Then take corrective action. From the photo, there may be a small leak at one of the fittings, but not too bad. Good caps are a must.
Edited: Fri March 19, 2010 at 12:21 AM by Cussboy
I agree, you don't even know for sure if the refrigerant leaked out, it could be an electrical problem.. You need the system checked by some one who has gauges, to see if there is enough pressure to start the system as it should.. You don't give the ambient temp where you are, so I can't even guess what the static pressure should be.. Have the pressures checked first and get back to us...
hope this helps..
Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose
Not a whole lot going on in this image. Maybe a slow leak which as stated a new valve or cap could fix. Need some more in-depth diagnostic's on it to determine what is really the source of poor cooling.
If it's a slow leak you would have noticed loss of cooling performance long before it gets to the point where the compressor won't engage. After losing a few oz of refrigerant there is basically no cooling, even though the pressure is still up and the compressor runs.
If you don't have pressure gauges, unplug the pressure switch (which I think is on or near the receiver-drier) and test it for continuity. If it is a closed circuit, the problem is not lack of pressure. If it's like the Civic, a common problem is the temperature switch on the back of the compressor. It fails to an open circuit even though the temperature is normal, and that disables the system.
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