Engine Size: 5.7
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Attempting to piece together a custom AC system for my LS1 powered hot rod. All comments are welcome. Here is a list of components I have at my disposal:
1. Stock R134a compressor (came with motor) from a 2004 Pontiac GTO (Delphi# 1137020, GM# 92088081). Uses 9oz of 12345923 Oil (hmm PEG 150 or is that PEG 46).
2. Evaporator from a 2006 Ford Explorer (ACDelco# 1562044, replaces 88928006, 19191334, 52499366, 88928006). This evaporator uses an orifice tube (ACDelco# 155755).
3. Condenser from the 2004 GTO (ACDelco# 1563233, GM# 92147803).
The stock 2004 GTO setup has a receiver dryer located at the outlet of the condenser (it measures 2.5Ã¢ÂÂx7Ã¢ÂÂ, ACDelco# 1510638, GM# 92145769) which was then connected to a very expensive expansion valve (ACDelco# 1550542, GM# 92117402), followed by the evaporator which flows into what looks like a small accumulator/hose assembly (ACDelco# 1533057, GM# 92122929) before returning to the compressor.
Question 1: To simplify things and save some money I would like to eliminate the, again expensive stock $60, receiver dryer and small accumulator/hose with a regular low side accumulator. Something like that used on the Corvette (ACDelco # 1510082 $20), but with integrated pressure switch. All hoses will be custom made.
Question 2: It seems all R134a systems use O-ring fittings between components. I have the option of using either fancy Aeroquip AC Nylon stainless steel hose and O-ring fittings ($$$) or common AN fittings with 37 degree flare and stainless steel Teflon hose($). Is there anything wrong with using the AN fittingsÃ¢ÂÂ¦ after all many R12 systems used them (I think). Barrier hose is ugly so its just not going to work in this truck.
Sounds simple enough. Any fundamental flaws in my logic? Things I need to watch out for.
Yes you will need to eliminate the high side filter/dryer of the TXV system, and use a low side accumulator w/ cycling switch to match your conversion to a CCOT system. I would bet the compressor you have will most probably only function with the OE computer and in a TXV configuration; it may also need to be changed.
You have a personal choice to use the trucks (1950's) technology of fluid connectors (metal flare), or the 2004 technology of the driveline you have installed.
IMHO, You may want to think about the personal choice you have made about the brakes; I don't think I would want to fly around with that motor on 50's brakes, although they are as functional as a metal to metal fluid connection (you did call it a hot rod).
"function versus appearance" is another personal choice.
IMHO, A clean and proper install using the correct and quality materials looks great. You can always cover what appears ugly to you with something flashy; but you can't add quality to flashy stuff. I would spend the money to achieve both.
No disrespect intended, just my comments as you asked for. Keep us updated.
Welcome to this A/C board,
Hot Rods don't have much factor of safety for the heat dissipation from the refrigerant condenser that will meet minimum cooling requirements. This situation is made significantly worse with a orifice tube (OT) with accumulator (ACC) A/C system configuration. The fixed orifice OT will create terrific head pressures at idle unless there is a large face area condenser with great quantities of high velocity air flow evenly distributed across the face area and no hot air recirculation from the engine compartment (with a tail wind). Therefore, a expansion valve (variable orifice) with a high side accumulator/drier is always best for one off hot rods (no OT or Accum required). In either case a high side mounted high pressure cut out switch (range of 350 to 400 psi cut out) is recommended for a Hot Rod.
An accumulator is not required with a expansion valve system.
Teflon hose (and crimp joints) is a risk with R-134a. Refrigerant barrier hose uses Nylon. The very best quality hose and fitting, by far, is the Aeroquip Ezz Clip which has o-ring seals between the fitting and the hose.
Stainless tubing looks sharp for the high pressure liquid line from the condenser to the drier and from the drier to the expansion valve. Only 2 high priced refrigerant braided stainless hose is needed. One #10 or #12 suction hose from the evaporator outlet to the compressor inlet and one #8 from the compressor outlet to the condenser inlet. The downside of stainless braided Aeroquip Hot Rod hose is that they do not have a good moisture barrier covering the hose. Aeroquip admits this and was working on making it as good as barrier hose to reduce moisture ingression.
R-12 used 45 degree flare refrigerant fittings instead of 37.5 degree hydraulic fittings.
Isentropic Efficiency=Ratio of Theoretical Compression Energy/Actual Energy.
AMAZON.com: How To Air Condition Your Hot Rod
We've updated our forums!
Click here to visit the new forum
Copyright © 2016 Arizona Mobile Air Inc.