Engine Size: 3.0 DOHC
Refrigerant Type: 134a
I'm replacing my old compressor due to bad clutch. I removed the old one (it was still functional prior removal) and there is no internal damage and particles in the system.I already received brand new ford OEM compressor with clutch.It came with 7 oz of PAG-46.
Is Ford OEM PAG Double End Capped ?
Also I wander can I use the O-rings that came with the compressor or I have to buy new compressor O-rings?
I looked at your ford o-ring kits and find two: CP3012 - 1981 - 2005 Ford-Mercury System O-ring Kit and 27-24742-KT - Ford FX6 & FS10 O-ring Kit the first one was under vehicles specific kits the second one under HNBR & Neoprene O-Ring Kits which one to order ?
I also need o-rings for ford peanut fittings(these orings are brown and I have two of these fittings by the condenser).Is any of these two kits include these "peanut orings"?
And finally about the procedure.I am going to install the new compressor, I'll order accumulator from you(very good price) also change the Orifice. I have the manifold and tube removed but I think it is not recommended to be flushed.I can try only to blow it with dry air.I'll remove the liquid line to replace the orifice and will blow it also.The suction line comes together with the accumulator and it will be new.The only things left are the evaporator and the condenser. I don't have the proper flush equipment I think is better not to try to flush them.
Since my old compressor didn't contaminate the a/c system (I catch it on time) do i have to flush?I know the old oil,but can I just blow it out with hot air.
I have always considered the oil that comes with the compressor to be shipping oil; and drain it out. I read that your question about double end capped, says you may be concerned also. Another reason; is it 7 ounces, and is that the amount you need?
Use the HNBR orings. Someone from AMA (give them a call) will help to make sure you get the all the right orings you need, when you order the other parts you also need from them.
Blowing out the evap and condenser components can help to determine if debris or restrictions exist, and may spit out a little of the old oil for visual analysis; other than that, blowing is just going to "smear" the old oils around inside the component.
There are usually OE instructions to do what you are doing. It is called "oil balancing" and requires certain amounts of oil to be added back for the different parts being replaced. This process is based upon the assumptions that no debris exists and the proper oil charge was already in there; to determine how much oil "should" be remaining in the items not being replaced. No doubt it works and is done everyday; but I am not a fan, or can offer such figures.
I just opened one up that was clean but severely overcharged with oils (running out of parts) from constant topping with cans that contained oil; oil balancing would not work on this one.
Good luck with your repair.
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