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System rebuild

aedgrandam on Tue September 29, 2009 3:45 PM User is offline

Year: 1992
Make: Acura
Model: Integra GS-R
Engine Size: 1.7L
Refrigerant Type: R12
Country of Origin: Japan

Hello, I'm new to these forums, and I'm looking for some assistance on a car that I am currently rebuilding. I have a 92 Integra GS-R, I purchased the car to keep and decided to go through everything under the hood. I discovered while removing the engine that an O ring had cracked over the years in an AC line and my refrigerant had leaked out. I didn't run the AC after I bought the car, fearing that the system had a leak and didn't want to risk compressor damage. I did try the AC once to see if anything even worked, and it seem liked everything did (electically speaking), the air that came out of the vents was not cold, so I knew something was amiss. (My 3rd Integra, both the other two totally had non-functioning AC's when I got them) At this point in time the lines and compressor are out of the car. I have read some on the site and determined that I would require a new drier and would have to clean the evaparator core. The compressor rotates freely and sound like its in serviceable order, all the lines were remarkably clean on the inside. My question is, now that the system is open off the car, what is required to convert it to R134A? I know I have to have the fittings and I would have to clean the mineral oil from the rest of the system, then evac and refill it. My other question is about the compressor age. I would like to reseal it before I reinstalled it to know that it was fresh. I was ready to purchase some components from the site until I seen where I could post for some assistance in the matter. I had decided I needed an import O ring kit (CP3008), nylog blue (RT201B), and an import drier (37-13393). I couldn't find the seal and gasket kit for my compressor due to the fact I didn't know what type it is Other than NipponDenso. Any info anyone could provide would be appreciated.

TRB on Tue September 29, 2009 3:55 PM User is offlineView users profile

This vehicle uses a 10PA15c compressor.

Minimum requirements for converting a system to R134a.

If system has any refrigerant R12 left in the system it must be reclaimed by an approved recovery machine.

Accumulator/drier must be replaced with an R134a compatible replacement. Conversion fittings and label must be added to the system. Label should have the amount of R134a used and quantity and oil type listed. If vehicle is not equipped with a high pressure cut off switch it must be added. That is the required minimum! While complying with the EPA laws may not provide the best performance.

Flushing the system to remove the mineral oil and debris should also be done. R134a and mineral oil do not work well together so leaving it in the system with R134a is not recommended! O-rings should be replaced with either NBR or HNBR replacements. Adjustment of the pressure cycling switch may also be needed to achieve the best performance. In some cases an upgrade of the condenser may be required to achieve the original performance. In many cases the parallel flow condenser will not be available as a direct replacement. Using a universal parallel flow is an option. A new custom hose set would be needed for the different style fittings used on the various parallel flow condensers.

There are many different suggestions when charging a R12 system with R134a. System must be evacuated before starting the charging procedure. I suggest you start with about 70 percent of the original R12 charge and add an ounce at a time until vent and pressure readings reach the best available results. Remember it is easy to over charge a system with R134a so patience is important.


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aedgrandam on Tue September 29, 2009 6:38 PM User is offline

I have never really worked on AC systems before now, how would I know if it had a HPCO switch already?

mk378 on Tue September 29, 2009 7:58 PM User is offline

Japanese cars were almost always TXV systems with a combination low/high pressure switch on one of the high side lines. The stock switch will serve the purpose, don't need to add another. I would not take the compressor apart unless you know there is a problem with it. Flushing the evaporator requires disconnecting the TXV first, if the valve is not under the hood you need to take the evaporator box out from under the dash (which is not difficult).

aedgrandam on Wed September 30, 2009 7:32 PM User is offline

The compressor seems fine, its just came out of a 17 year old car. If the previous owner ran the AC with no refrigerant, I guess the compressor would not have even cut on. Everything in the car works so I am assuming that all electrical systems regarding the AC are working as well. If I decide not to redo the compressor how and with what should I flush it with before reinstalling it? Can I use the same procedure/products to clean the evaporator?

HVargas on Wed September 30, 2009 7:48 PM User is offlineView users profile

To flush a compressor you simply dump out the old oil, add fresh PAG oil, give the clutch a few turns, drain and refill, if the oil comes out dirty, keep doing it until it come's out clean. I would definitely replace the shaft seal at least on the compressor. With no activity for a long time I'm sure that rubber seal has hardened up and will leak at the first sign of pressure. Flushing the evaporator is complete different. You are going to want to flush it with a solvent based flush. Read up on HECAT's flush paper to better understand why and how to flush components.


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