Engine Size: 4.3
Refrigerant Type: R-134a
Ambient Temp: 84
Pressure Low: 38
Pressure High: 275
Country of Origin: United States
Recently replace AC Compressor, new dryer. and Oriface Tube. Flushed system replaced o-rings on disconnects lines . Drain shipping oil out of compressor add PAG oil 8oz spun compressor over 10 times by hand to make sure it was in compressor. Pulled vaccum for 45 mins got vaccum down to 29hg held vacum for 30 mins no leaks. Service system with 36 oz of R-134a and one can of R-134a with UV dye, no leaks. This was last Friday when I changed the system out. Drove home in the rain ac vents were very cold (almost to cold).
How vent temp is running about 48 degrees. Temp 86 degrees 56% humidity, at idle Low side reading is 38 high side reading is 275. Sould it be colder? Condenser looks clean. Any thoughts on how to get the vent temp to cabin down?
Thanks in advance.
What was the reason you replaced the components in the first place?
The AC Compressor locked up.
was there any debris on the orifice tube when you pulled it? the high side readings look pretty high, sounds like a condenser issue. what are your readings at 1500 rpms?
Edited: Thu August 27, 2009 at 2:01 PM by robs
There was alot of metal on the oriface tube. I will take readings @ 1500 RPM when I get off work tonight and post them.
When there is a significant amount of metal shavings on the orifice tube, its a sign that the entire system is contaminated and will require most components to be replaced (compressor, condenser, accumulator and orifice tube). Pretty much all the shavings you saw are clogging up your condenser. Condenser is needed to be replaced as well because it is not flush able and will cause the symptoms you are having now or even compressor failure once again. The evaporator and hoses (if not leaking) are pretty much what you can only salvage, but will require proper flushing. I would not run the A/C, reclaim your refrigerant, properly flush out your compressor, evaporator, hoses and replace the condenser, drier and orifice tube. Put back into the system the required amount of oil and refrigerant.
You said you flushed the system.
I am going to agree and disagree with Robs statement "condensers are not flushable".
If you have a high flow and effective flushing system, the condenser can be back flushed of the metal debris.
If you do not have a high flow and effective flushing system, a metal debris packed condenser should be replaced.
Metal debris in the OT, indicates all the big pieces are in the condenser.
Guy's, I did flush the system with 2 quarts of AC flush from NAPA using a shop air a compressor and a flush gun kit. I flush all the lines and the evaporator both ways until ( a thought) all the particles were removed. Can I get away with just change out the condenser and re-flush the system again and install a new orifice tube and receiver dryer?
I will get pressure reading this evening @ 1500 RPM. Also the compressor does not cycle on/off with ac on max ac and blower speed on high.
Thanks in advance.
Like Hecat said, you need a high flow and effective flushing system. A gun is great for line's and maybe even the evaporator but to do a condenser you really need something a little more effective. Odds are some of the debris has already moved throughout the system. Pull the orifice tube and check it again to see if any more debris has made it through the system. I would highly not recommend starting the system up and running it as you can just complicate things.
To save the mass confusion in Ã¢ÂÂFlushingÃ¢ÂÂ for the board members.
Most parts of an a/c system can be flush with the proper equipment. For tougher jobs you will need better tools to do the job. Hecat offers a wide selection of Flushing Equipment for these type of jobs. The tools are only as good as the person using them. And what I mean is, if you fail to use them correctly they will not do you justice, and should be taken to the professionals.
You should always follow manufacture recommendations.
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