Engine Size: V6
Refrigerant Type: dunno
Country of Origin: United States
I replaced the AC Tensioner Pulley because I thought the bearing was bad on that. Well it was, but not as bad as the compressor, because it is still making a ton of noise when Idling. It's not a grinding noise, but kind of a *whirling* *whirring*, sound... more than the norm.
When I turn on the AC, it still works pretty well. It could be a lot colder, but it's still cold. We didn't use the A/C for one season because we just took the belt off for 8+ months. I wanted the A/C again and hadn't fixed it yet, so I just put it back on. It was making the noise before we took the belt off too. When I first put the belt back on, the first day there was no noise.
My question is, what do I have to replace? Is it the bearing or the clutch? Or should I just replace the whole thing. I was hoping to keep this as simple as possible and not have to get any AC machine involved.
I would inject an ounce of oil in it and see if it helps the noise. But first I would get some pressure readings so you know where you stand performance wise.
I'm guessing I'd need some special gauges to read the pressures. I'm new to this.
Also, how would I inject the oil? (I guess I'll go to Advanced Auto or NAPA for this).
You have noise all the time the engine is running, or only when the A/C is on?
If it's all the time the engine is running, the pulley bearing is bad. It can be replaced with the system still charged. It may be hard to find the bearing sold separate-- then you'd have to buy a "clutch set" which includes new pulley with bearing, new clutch plate, and new coil.
I have the same noise in my 97 Odyssey. My clutch relay isn't getting a ground from my ECU so I'll replace it Monday when a new one comes but in the mean time, I have a bypass installed keeping the clutch engaged.
In trouble shooting my system, I tried adding 134A but I don't think it took any (gauge on the can). The pressure starts at the high end of FULL and after a minute or two ends up at the low end of FULL, borderline add on the gauge (sorry I don't have the psi figures). The idle is slower than it was before the electrical problem occured and it is even stalling once in a while. The computer idle-up boost when the AC button is pressed is working but not helping in this case due to what seems to be excessive drag.
I am afraid to install the new ECU when when it comes while the compressor could be an issue.
I'd try the extra oz of oil except I don't know if it would take it if it didn't take any refrigerant when I tried. I guess I need to have the system checked with the compressor jumper in place. One shop said everything was fine except for the clutch engage signal but how could they say that if the compressor wasn't running? They did say they checked the refrigerant levels. How accurate is this if they remove my refrigerant and check externally? Can the oil level be checked this way also?
Step away from the van, before it literally blows up in your face.
Jumping the compressor with the engine running- risky.
Adding refrigerant without watching the high side pressure, and with the compressor jumped- very bad idea.
Though it is rare, it does sound like you do have a bad ECU. The engine idles up, indicating that the ECU has received the signal and decided it is time to turn the compressor on. But the ECU does not pull the relay in.
Compressor problems will not damage the ECU.
Remove all jumper wires, evacuate and recharge by weight, install new ECU, and most likely you will have cold air. If you don't, start troubleshooting from the beginning.
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