Model: Grand Caravan
Engine Size: 3.3
Refrigerant Type: 134A
Ambient Temp: 90
Pressure Low: 65
Pressure High: 65
Country of Origin: United States
I have acquired a Dodge Grand Caravan Sport with 63,250 miles on it. Was purchased new and maintained religously. The only flaw in its history is minor accident involving the right rear quarter panel in 2003. It was repaired by a Dodge Dealership bodyshop.
The question I have is the AC has leaked down to 20 psi on the gages and a recharge only lasts about a two weeks and I would like to know what the most common leak points are on this vehicle? It has dual air and is accessory loaded. I do not believe that the ac was used a lot due to the owners being elderly and not driving the van much. I plan to go ahead and use an electronic leak check unit to see if I can find the source of the problem. When the AC is charged it runs 45 and 225 on the gauges on a ninety degree day. Center outlet temp is 47 degrees using an electronic temp indicator. The system has been evacuated once about two years ago using a JB DV142 and held vacuum of 29 indicated for thirty minutes and remained charged for about six weeks. Now it is lasting about two weeks before it stops cooling. Appreciate the assistance.
Do thorough check of the front evaporator.
I analyze about 6 or 7 Caravan, voyagers a year for evaporator leaks- and I don't even work on them--try to stay with GM products..
My money is on the dash pulling evaporator leaking....
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
Your operating pressures and outlet temp are OK for 90f.
The rear evap on 3rd Generation Chrysler/Dodge minivans are prone to leaks, and guess where it is - behind the right rear trim panel, where the previous accident damage was.
That doesn't mean it is the rear evap leaking, but it is the easiest one to get at with your leak detecter.
Vic @ Pennine AutoChill
Thanks for the replies. I plan to go ahead with a TFI5550 electronic leak detector. It has a flex probe and I should be able to access the evaporater. Any pointers on where the best access points are? I figure going in thru the drain in front and open the r/r trim panel to check the rear. Thanks for the help.
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