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AC noob learning

steveh99tj on Sun June 14, 2009 7:32 PM User is offline

Year: 1996
Make: Ford
Model: Explorer
Engine Size: 4.0L
Refrigerant Type: R134a
Country of Origin: United States

AC noob here witj multiple issues and questions.

Here's the situation. My wife's car started blowing warm after it had been driven for a while. But if you let it sit or left the air off for a while ans then turned it on it would work for a little bit, but again stop blowing cold, so I did the typical noob thing and bought a can with the little cheapy useless gauge on it and tried filling it. I now know this was the wrong move.

I had a set of gauges, but I don't know why I didn't use them from the start but I didn't. Anyway I hooked them up and the compressor was cycling A LOT. Then when the car was hot from running a while, the pressure would drop on the high side and spike on the low side and the compressor would not come on again until the system cooled down, but both sides would equalize during this time.

Apparently the high side service port was going bad and hooking up the gauges caused the rubber "ball" in the service port to go bad.
First question, I know the service port is replaceable, but where can I buy one from?

To stop the service port from leaking all the R134a out I left the high side quick connect on the port, removed the hose and capped the outlet. So the system still has R124a in it, but it's low. I failed to capture any readings before the port issue became high priority.

Any ideas as to what the issue could be or suggestions on my next step?


I have a replacement service port from a salvage yard, but I don't know if it's good or not.

Question 2. Is the orifice tube a reliable means of determining the issue? IOW, how it's looks, blockage amount and color of blockage?
Question 3. If I have the system evacuated, remove and inspect the orifice tube, determine what the issue is, close up the system, order parts, leaving the system while I wait for my new parts. Will this damage anything else?

I thinking if the orifice tube isn't bad looking I would just replace it and the drier and have a shop pull vacuum and refill the system. Otherwise I'll replace the entire system with the exception of the hoses, having them flushed, and then have a shop pull vacuum and refill.

Any and all comments and help appreciated.



Chick on Sun June 14, 2009 7:40 PM User is offlineView users profile

First, you will need to change the high side service port, then adjust your clutch gap, thats why it stops working when it gets hot.. Then vacuum and recharge, throw away they cans if they have anything in them but virgin R134a . All that belongs in your system is R134a and oil, and a little UV dye, nothing else..

You can get the "replaceable" service valve from Ackits.com, just e-mail the guys at ACKITS.COM and they will take care of you...
Remember, you must pull a vacuum and recharge the factory amount back in.. Do a search on clutch gap adjustments on this forum, there are pics to help you... Hope this helps.

-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

steveh99tj on Sat June 20, 2009 2:30 AM User is offline

Got a friend with a shop to evacuate the system and replaced the service valve, but since I opened the system should I go ahead and replace the drier and orifice tube?

If I go ahead and replace the orifice tube and drier, how many days can I go before I have the system vacuumed down and filled?
My buddies shop isn't open on the weekends.

Chick on Sat June 20, 2009 6:04 AM User is offlineView users profile

No, as long as the system isn't open to long, pull a deep vacuum and recharge the factory amount.. Don't forget the clutch gap adjustment... hope this helps..

-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

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