Model: Land Cruiser
Engine Size: 4.5L
Refrigerant Type: ???
Trying to condense a long story-
'93 Land Cruiser, when purchased in 2004 A/C worked ok, charged with R12, worked well for a year, tried to charge it the next year, system would not build pressure on the high side. (bad compressor)
Few years later, buy cheap new compressor, new Toyota expansion valve and reciever/dryer and some "Freeze 12," and try again with help of buddy who now looking back probably didn't know very much (still more than I did at the time.) Compressor worked for a short time, then seized.
Fast forward to the present- New Nippondenso (OEM) compressor, new reciever/dryer. Have vac pump, manifold gauge set and freeze 12. Go to work and notice what I now know are R134 conversion fittings on the compressor. No conversion stickers anywhere.
So now I don't know if my system ever had R134 and specifically PAG oil in it.
The original plan was to change receiver/dry and compressor, add appropriate amounts of Ester oil to reciever/dryer and compressor (after draining whatever it came with), vac system, check for leaks, charge with Freeze 12 and go.
Now I am wondering if I should go through trouble of flushing, since it really is a tossup as to what all is in the system now. No sign of metal particles or trash in system after removing old compressor.
Also- I need an adapter fitting for my 3/16 high pressure schraeder fitting to my old R12 gauge's 1/4" fitting. I was told this website had them, haven't been able to find any.
Thanks for any help!
Since you've had two compressors die, you need to really clean the condenser, or replace it.
Freeze-12 is just R-134a with an additional ingredient to push the old mineral oil around. You should get better performance with pure R-134a after changing the oil. Or you could use R-12. Don't put R-12 into a system that contains any PAG oil at all though, as they chemically react.
Here is the deal, you need some equipment to do the job right and there is really no way around that! So the question is are you willing to purchase the equipment you need to do the job yourself? If not the options are taking to a shop that can do the job right or continue to have compressor failures one after another. If you select to go the DIY route we are here to help with any question you might have related to auto a/c.
This link provides an overall view of what needs to be used to flush a system correctly. Hecat products are what we use in our shop and really have found none better to get the job done.
Ya'll have got my attention.
So- I read the applicable sections of the HECAT Tech paper, and I understand the benefits/ ins and outs of flushing. I'm more than willing to do the work since it heightens the chance I won't have to touch my A/C on this truck for several years. However, the tech paper mentions a "$75 flush gun." Over in the sale listings I see the DIY flush kit for ~$325. Where's the disconnect? I know good tools aren't cheap, and in most cases I'm willing to buy the tool the first time I need it, as I'm likely to need it again, but if $325 is the minimum to get started flushing with any real results, I'll have to find a good shop that can handle that part of the job.
Thanks for the help guys.
Edited: Mon June 08, 2009 at 1:00 PM by CruisinGA
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