Had to drive it to my daughters university to haul back her stuff, brake pedal when clear to the floor, yet another brake line rusted out, but did drive home carefully and decided to enjoy some music and switch on the AC first time this year. Blower ran great, no AC lights, but no cooling either.
While replacing that brake line, saw a sheathed cable chewed into to pieces with a brown and green wire on the inside, had no idea what that was for, but repaired that as well. Found out quickly that those wires were for the AC clutch coil, AC is working again.
Seeing other brake lines that will need replacing soon, maybe time to get rid of this thing, body and interior look perfect, but still can't get away from GM rust.
Now Nick you know you live in the wrong part of the country so you get rust
It's not from the oceans.
Why replace the whole car if only the brake lines are going bad? From the pics I've seen before, the car looks great, and everything works. Unless you're buying new, you'll only be inherting someone elses problems - especially if it's a newer Caddy.
In my opinion, at this stage you should replace ALL the brake lines - both steel and rubber - every last one of them, rebuild the master cylinder and ALL the calipers, and you should be good to go for a long time to come. This is your life we're talking about... and we want you around for a good while.
If you had to replace one section of brake line, chances are another section is going to go bad... death of a thousand cuts... do them all now and be done with it. OEM brake lines - if still available - will be $$$ the steel lines and rebuild parts cost next to nothing.
I have already formed two of the four brake lines with my handy dandy tube bender using both my double and bubble flare tools. Should also drop the tank and replace those steel upper gas lines that are showing a lot of signs of rust. But admittedly, nice having a car that I don't have to take to the dealer to read codes. Wife is showing interest in a 4-Runner however, that's a Toyota like our host drives, but I don't think they make these things with a stick shift. Last week I replaced the LR hub that had a defective ABS wheel sensor, took that apart, over a thousand turns of 41 AWG wire in the pickup coil, coil was good, but it's solder connection to the output terminal was poor. Sensor was about 50 bucks, but the hub seal was also bad, so replaced the entire unit for 90 bucks.
My R-12 is still holding good after a top off of three years ago.
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