In combination with Hecat we are offering a gallon bottle of Hecat Safe-Flush with a purchase of the Pulsator Flush Kit.. That's a savings of $ 46.55 on top of knowing you are using the correct equipment for the job at hand.
That will help make up for the price increase since last year.
It's a great machine.
Agree with you on the Pulsator Matt, it is a great flush machine and the Safe Flush it self is pretty darn good compared to stuff I see out there these days. We all would like to see lower prices but you will have to trust me when I say, Karl and I have been working for over a year to bring the best flushing products at the best price we can.
I just purchased it yesterday and am pretty excited to get started. I was wondering though... I have a 30gal 5HP Craftsman compressor. Is it sufficient or will it be running constanty? I was also wondering if the free gal of Hecat flush plenty for one complete system? Because you can't recycle it through a second time, correct? Reading the forums I see flush, flush, flush... you can never flush enough, but I want to make sure that the one gallon will be enough. I have to watch my costs though and I can't let my wife know right away about this purchase with the risk of her wrath, but I feel blessed to get the free gallon of flushing solvent anyway to get me rolling.
This is a first time flushing experience for me and would like to perform it properly. I have read the flushing procedures and will probably be using my compressor with a good moisture separating filter to purge the system (hoping the compressor doesn't run constant). Do you have a recommended purge flow? I have to read the procedure on testing the purge though.
And lastly, I planned to remove all big components except the evaporator, since the engine is now pulled and flush them more conveniently. I will be replacing the little components though (expansion valve and receiver drier, and sysgem oring kit), Am I safe to do all the flushing first and then purge each one individually afterwards?... and do I need to worry about any residue or does this flush pose no residue issues?
Sorry for the book, but just trying to cover all concerns ahead of time. Thanks
Edited: Fri July 10, 2009 at 3:12 AM by scusack71
Thanks for your purchase and your questions. I am confident you will be pleased with this purchase decision.
The amount of flush included at no charge was a battle for me and Tim to decide upon. This tool was already being met with resistance due to the cost and the thought of adding two gallons with "one free" would be adding the cost of one gallon. So we decided to add the one gallon at no charge as this created no increase to the advertised price.
The amount of solvent required will increase with the severity of the contamination. If you have some severe metal contamination and burnt oils, I would highly recommend obtaining more. If your system is not that "fried" and just in need of cleaning out old oils, the one gallon should be fine. You can reserve a little for a "clean" final flush and use the rest for the "heavy" work. You can take this "heavy" work flush and pour it out of the capture bucket through a fine mesh paint strainer (do not introduce debris into the flusher tank) and use is over and over as needed.
Your compressor should be fine for this operation, it can be done with less of a compressor. But yes, the flusher's performance requires a substantial volume of air and even more for the proper purge; so it will be running a lot during this job. Now would be the time to double check the compressors oil level, cooling air flow, and install (if not already in place) a quality moisture separator (filter); as we do not want to introduce any moisture during this process.
The components you are replacing (expansion valve, filter, compressor) cannot be flushed. You will be flushing the heat exchangers (condenser & evaporator) with associated lines, but no restrictions to inhibit flush flow. Yes, you can do all the component flushing without any issue, before beginning the purge (drying) process.
Solvent residues are indeed a serious issue; solvent residues will dilute the fresh oils and can cause a rapid repeat failure due to poor lubrication, this is why there is a strong emphasis on purging and testing before reassembling the components.
The purge flow (after liquid flushing) should be full flow, that is as much air as you can supply. It should be done for 20-30 minutes per component. It is not practical (but is possible) to hold the flush gun in place for this amount of time and the valving in the flusher will restrict some of the air flow. The best way is to fabricate some way to directly connect your air line to the component and let it go.
Hit the navigation button (above right) and go to the "Automotive Flushing Forum". At the bottom of the first post is a PDF file you can download and print. This document will answer a lot of your questions and provide more insight on flushing, purging, and testing.
Trust me, if you do need to buy more flush, we will not tell your wife.
You always need to address the required flush amount for each situation. My opinion is people try and get by with as little flush agent as possible! Reality they should be flushing more than they think is necessary. These aerosol cans are the biggest waste of money in our industry. Spray some flush in a condenser and blow it out. Yep it's clean now and of course it was the compressor that failed after this fine aerosol flush job!
Bottom line we at this forum have a wonderful resource with Karl from Hecat. Sure we support his products but he has done tons of testing on all these flush products and he brings this information free of charge to us.
scusack71, thanks for supporting the forum & ACkits.com.
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