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1999 durango clutch wont come on

dbcox on Sun February 15, 2009 12:56 PM User is offline

Year: 1999
Make: dodge
Model: durango
Country of Origin: Georgia

I have my neighbors 1999 dodge durango V8. I replaced the compressor and was refilling with 134a and the clutch will not kick on. I put a small can of oil and not quit a can of 134a. My guage reads almost 45lbs low side. I tried jumping the pressure switch out and the clutch did not work.
I would appreciate any quik help so I can get it out of my driveway. I have never had this be an issue before changing a comp.
Thanks for the help
Daniel

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www.lubedealer.com/dbcox
ZO#1568374

GM Tech on Sun February 15, 2009 4:58 PM User is offline

Last Durango I worked on had a "too wide air gap" - had to bump the clutch to make it pull in...

Obvious question- do you have 12v at the compressor? if so- bump the clutch, if not- trace circuit backwards to the relay etc...

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

Chick on Sun February 15, 2009 11:11 PM User is offlineView users profile

Humm, low side reading only, have to ask was a deep vacuum pulled before recharging? if so, check the fuse, relay and of course the air gap as suggested by GM tech..hope this helps..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

dbcox on Mon February 16, 2009 9:00 AM User is offline

Thanks, I had power to one side of the high and low pressure switches. I did not have anything to the clutch(power). I checked fuses and swapped relays. Jumping out the pressure switch did not help. I didnt try bumping it, i turned it by hand some. I may see about bumping it in. The wiring harness is nasty hard to follow. Now I am only assuming it was working before the clutch messed up on the original. Sorry the low side is the only reading i can get, any other ideas? Ill let you know what hapens when i bump it in.
Can I take 12v from the battery to the clutch and get it to come on?

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www.lubedealer.com/dbcox
ZO#1568374

Edited: Mon February 16, 2009 at 9:12 AM by dbcox

Chick on Mon February 16, 2009 10:01 PM User is offlineView users profile

Did you pull a deep vacuum and charge into the vacuum? I see you changed the compressor? was it a used one or reman etc.. What did you use to charge it? virgin R134a, or the death kit can? check the coil for 3 to 4 ohms, but you can jump the compressor with 12v, but only if you are charging it properly..Vacuum, R134a and oil, no death kit.. Both pressures will be needed, so if you don't have guages you need to get a set, pull your vacuum thru them also..hope this helps..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Chick on Mon February 16, 2009 10:02 PM User is offlineView users profile

BTW you can use a volt meter to see if 12v is getting to the compressor and make sure you didn't bend the pis(s) on the connection..just a thought..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

mk378 on Tue February 17, 2009 10:18 AM User is offline

The pressure of 45 psi may not be quite enough to close the low pressure switch. Test the switch to see if it is closed. If you have 3 wire "switches," they are sensors not switches and cannot be jumped nor easily tested. Not sure about that one but some American cars (especially GM) will "lock out" the compressor through software in the PCM after a malfunction is detected. You could try resetting the PCM by disconnecting the battery (with the key off) for a few minutes.

Like Chick said, you must pump out the air with a vacuum pump before charging. Omitting this step will have it running a mixture of air and refrigerant, which will give poor performance at best. Air just pushes the pressure up and gets in the way of the refrigerant doing its job. The only cure is to remove the mixture and start over, pulling a vacuum this time.

Starting from vacuum, with the engine off, hook up a can and tap it. Turn the can upside down so liquid goes into the hose. Open both valves on the manifold. The vacuum should suck the whole can in almost immediately. Repeat with another can. When it doesn't go in any more that way, close both manifold valves. Start the engine and turn the A/C on and complete the charge as gas (turn the can right side up) through the low side only. Charging in cold weather can be a problem. Warm up the refrigerant cans in warm water so they are warmer than any other part.

You should not need to jump anything to complete a charge. If the controls are working properly, the compressor will run enough to do it.

bohica2xo on Tue February 17, 2009 3:53 PM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: dbcox
Thanks, I had power to one side of the high and low pressure switches. I did not have anything to the clutch(power). I checked fuses and swapped relays. The wiring harness is nasty hard to follow. q]

That Durango has lots of switches, and the PCM is involved. There are three fuses to check:

Fuse "D" - 20 amps. Compressor clutch power

Fuse "7" - 15 amps. Compressor clutch Relay power

Fuse "A" - 10 amps. A/C pressure & temperature switch circuit.

There are both high & low pressure switches, as well as a low temperature sensor on the side of the H block. If the vehicle was equipped with the optional "Maximum Cooling", there are even more switches.

You really should have a complete wiring diagram for this vehicle.

B.





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~ Mahatma Gandhi, Gandhi, An Autobiography, M. K. Gandhi, page 446.

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