Engine Size: 1.8
Refrigerant Type: R134
Ambient Temp: 85
Country of Origin: United States
Customer complained the a/c would shut off at high rpm's and at idle for about 10 seconds it would kick back on blowing cold. We changed the thermister, evaporater, expansion valve, and a/c clutch relay. We even went as far as spending $700 replacing the ECM, and It is still not working. Please help!!!
What are the refrigerant pressures as it goes through these cycles? Do the condenser fan(s) all work? When the compressor is not engaged though it should be, is the clutch getting power or not?
PRESSURES ARE NORMAL 210 HIGH SIDE LOW ABOUT 30, FANS WORK WHEN THEY SUPPOSE TO, A/C CLUTCH GETTING POWER.
If the clutch is powered but it won't pull in, that means either the coil is open or the air gap is too wide.
But would that make it run cold at idle and turn off at high rpm?
Once the system has normally cycled the compressor off once, it may be balky at coming back on when it should.
If you have the car powering up the clutch wire but the clutch is not engaging, the clutch is not working.
If not mistaken, the compressor on this vehicle has a temp/pressure cut out switch located on the compressor body. It is quite possible that at elevated rpm the pressure/temp of the refrigerant exceeds the specs for this switch. Insure that the system if totally charged and then check the inlet/outlet temps of the condenser...at idle...and at elevated RPM. An excessive temp drop indicates a restricted condenser. High and low side pressures are not always indicative of a possible condenser restriction. A test of the compressor outlet is sometimes all that is necessary to determine if this is indeed the problem.
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Edited: Tue September 23, 2008 at 7:38 PM by iceman2555
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