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compressor fitting leak

max on Sat August 30, 2008 1:52 PM User is offline

Year: 1994
Make: Buick
Model: Lesabre
Engine Size: 3.8
Refrigerant Type: r134a
Ambient Temp: 70

I'm having trouble with a leak where the refrigerant lines attach to the compressor. I lubed the gaskets with a bit of ester oil and tightened the bolt firmly. What is the correct way to install these 2 gaskets? Should they be assembled dry? Do I need nylog? How tight should I go on the fitting? Thanks for any help this is driving me crazy.

TRB on Sat August 30, 2008 2:58 PM User is offlineView users profile

Nylog is nice but its not the reason for the leak. Make sure you have the correct o-rings and the the manifold hose set is seating correctly.

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max on Sat August 30, 2008 4:54 PM User is offline

Do you have any tips to ensure the manifold is seated correctly? I know I'm doing something wrong. Is the ester oil ok to lube the seal or should I install the seals dry? Thanks

GM Tech on Sat August 30, 2008 5:01 PM User is offline

Your compressor uses sealing washers- they go in dry- no lube is needed- that is what makes them so nice-if you have a leak, you may not have the right sealing washers for your applications- you should have a step block manifold on a step-block compressor- that uses two sealing washers of equal thickness. If for some reason you have a salvage yard pump on there, prior to '94 MY then you would have a non-step block compressor that doesn't match your step-block hose...and that would create a bad seal situation and your leak.

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

max on Sat August 30, 2008 8:49 PM User is offline

The compressor is a rebuilt unit but it is the same as the one I took out. I put ester oil on the seals - this has to be why it's leaking. I ordered a new set of seals and will try again. On the compressor that came out one refrigerant port is slightly more recessed than the other. Is this how you can tell if it's the step block design. Thank you very much.

Chick on Sat August 30, 2008 9:10 PM User is offlineView users profile

As GM Tech stated, the step design is actually, one port is deeper than the other..If your original was straight across with no recess, you need a compressor either the same, or one thin and one thick sealing washer.. Hope this explains it for you..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

max on Sun August 31, 2008 6:37 PM User is offline

All I can say is a sincere thank you for solving a mystery that has been bugging me for most of the summer. I really thought it was me doing something wrong. Anyway what I have is this- the original manifold and compressor is the step design - the rebuilt compressor is the straight across design. I swapped some parts with a buddy and got the compressor so it would be good if I can get this one to work. Can I order the correct washers from ackits? and what should I ask for exactly? Thanks again.

TRB on Sun August 31, 2008 7:17 PM User is offlineView users profile

This should have you covered.

CP3016

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com


Edited: Sun August 31, 2008 at 9:15 PM by TRB

Matt L on Sun August 31, 2008 7:20 PM User is offline

There's an extra "https//" in there.

max on Sun August 31, 2008 8:34 PM User is offline

Fixed the link and found it. Well at least my ac will be working for next summer....

TRB on Sun August 31, 2008 9:16 PM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: Matt L
There's an extra "https//" in there.

You would think I have adding links down by now!


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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

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