Engine Size: 4.3
Country of Origin: United States
I'm embarrassed to admit this, but here goes. I disassembled a HT6 to replace O-rings I got from ACKits. I was very careful not to disturb too much and it went pretty smooth at first. Once I had the 2 body halves back together I went to replace the end plates with the reed valves. I thought all the holes were the same. I realized the back end has 2 rectangular holes and a round hole and the front plate has 2 rectangular holes and that's it. Both have a letter O stamped along the edge, but I don't know how to orient the plates. I put it back together, but it's obviously not right. I can hear the pistons moving, but I get no suction or back pressure from either port. Any advice on how to orient the plates?
I should have paid closer attention during disassembly, but I didn't notice they were different as I laid them aside. I thought the holes over the internal passages were all rectangular shaped and just matched up to the rectangular passages internal to the body. Didn't realize there are 3 rectangular passages and only 2 rectangular holes in the plates.
Any help would be appreciated. If not then I'll find another one and disassemble it for reference....not my first choice
Page 12 may help you a little. If not one of the compressor experts may chime in on this.
I do them all the time-- relax- you will never make this mistake again-I did it once only- these are known as "no-pumpers" when this happens- you need to look at the valve plates closely- the two "bottle holes" line up with the suction internal porting- and the single bypass tube lines up with the communication to high pressure through the cylinders to make both high pressure ends meet-and go out the rear of the compressor through the discharge hole. There should also be faint indicators (discolored areas where it has been sitting) on the valve plates showing where they were positioned originally
The very first thing you always need to do is scribe a line along all 4 castings- so that you never rotate them-- if the castings get rotated- you will also get a "no-pumper"
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
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