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have to pinch heater hose for a/c to stay cold

totallysick on Sun August 03, 2008 9:50 PM User is offline

Year: 2001
Make: Ford
Model: Crown Victoria
Engine Size: 4.6
Refrigerant Type: 134
Country of Origin: United States

Hello, I have a 2001 Ford Crown Victoria LX. It has a digital climate control in the dash. The fella I bought it from said that the heater hose needs to be pinched in order for the a/c to be cold. Any ideas on what could be wrong?

GM Tech on Sun August 03, 2008 9:59 PM User is offline

Sounds like the infamous temp door actuator broken problem-- I did one in a Mark V - not too bad- trick was to reinforce the gear axle with wire and some epoxy- all the details I was able to find on the automotiveforums.com- including explicite instruction and actual photos of all the bolts to remove the dash- took about 3 1/2 hrs- and a new temp door actuator....

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

JJM on Mon August 04, 2008 2:54 AM User is offline

Have you checked for codes?

Simultaneously press the OFF and FLOOR buttons, then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. Display will show a pulse tracer around the display. Record all the codes and post back. If you miss any codes, turn the ignition off and repeat above.

Joe

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: www.ACKits.com

totallysick on Mon August 04, 2008 6:40 AM User is offline

Joe, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Well I tried it and was not able to get any codes.
Should the car be running?
Should the a/c be turned on or off while performing the test?
When I press the OFF and FLOOR buttons do I release then press and hold the AUTOMATIC button for two seconds?

Oh, When I turn off the car I hear "things" in the dash that sound like a flap and release of vacuum.

Quote
Originally posted by: JJM
Have you checked for codes?



Simultaneously press the OFF and FLOOR buttons, then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. Display will show a pulse tracer around the display. Record all the codes and post back. If you miss any codes, turn the ignition off and repeat above.



Joe



When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: www.ACKits.com

scumfrog on Mon August 04, 2008 8:47 PM User is offline

http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-present/336684-i-fixed-my-poor-c-performance-11.html
Go to this website and read this long post. It sounds like the f150 heater hose probelm that guys are performing a modification on. They are puttting a valve in the heater hose line and turning it so no hot coolant gets to the heater core and are decreasing vent temps by 10 degrees. Sounds like the same problem you have. They periodically turn the valve open to allow coolant to circulate. This mod seems to help a lot of the f150s.

totallysick on Tue August 05, 2008 7:43 AM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: scumfrog
http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-present/336684-i-fixed-my-poor-c-performance-11.html

Go to this website and read this long post. It sounds like the f150 heater hose probelm that guys are performing a modification on. They are puttting a valve in the heater hose line and turning it so no hot coolant gets to the heater core and are decreasing vent temps by 10 degrees. Sounds like the same problem you have. They periodically turn the valve open to allow coolant to circulate. This mod seems to help a lot of the f150s.

scumfrog, I just read all 11 pages. Thanks for the info. I guess I'll put in the manual valve for now until I can figure out what is wrong.

totallysick on Tue August 05, 2008 8:13 AM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: JJM
Have you checked for codes?



Simultaneously press the OFF and FLOOR buttons, then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. Display will show a pulse tracer around the display. Record all the codes and post back. If you miss any codes, turn the ignition off and repeat above.



Joe

Joe, I figured out the test. After I press off and floor then auto... I get a tracer then everythink on the display lights up. Does that mean anything?

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: www.ACKits.com

NickD on Tue August 05, 2008 8:23 AM User is offline

I really do not have to post this, but there is a right way and a wrong way to make repairs, this sure sounds like the wrong way, and you will lose all temperature control.

For a temporary fix, better to just bypass your heater core and so do this by following the inlet and outlet hoses connecting a new hose directly from the engine side from where the inlet hose goes to, to where the outlet hose goes to. You have to be darn careful with the heater tubes, any stress on these can break the soldered joint and you will find yourself replacing the heater core as well, the engine side is far more robust, so stay away from the heater core. If you have to change hoses to the heater core, never try to pull them off, they have to be cut off with a very sharp utility knife.

It's also much safer to bypass the heater core than to block it, your engine may depend upon that hose to prevent hot spots that can ruin your engine, more, but really major problems.

Regarding codes, Ford use to have the self diagnostic feature built in, nowadays, you just don't know, most now depend upon a way overpriced OBD II scanner with a Ford accessory module, need a book to find this stuff out. Some allow you to set the range of the blend door, you may either have a mechanical problem, but with this damned flashram, your program in your BCM could also be messed up screwing up your blend door operation, in this case, have to go to the dealer and have your ram reflashed. It only takes a volt on the wrong pin to mess it up that can be caused by a corroded connector someplace.

Both Ford and GM have a history of reflashing, not because of glitches, but because they can't figure out how to write the software, they fix one problem and create two more. Not a DIY thing, equipment to do they cost more than what you paid for the car. Thinking about scrapping this junk and going my to my 88 Supra, all I need there is a paper clip to check everything. Software is correct and burnt in permanently.

Don't know where you live, for me to bypass the heater core, will only postpone the repair from working on the car in warm weather to sub zero weather. Rather work in warm weather.

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