Model: 1500 2wd
Engine Size: 350
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Country of Origin: United States
I had leaking high pressure port,, which caused me to add freon about 2 times a summer , it got worse and so i ran a supersealer through the system the system cooled great for about 2 weeks , then right back to no freon ,, i could add freon and it would work great until it leaked out in about 23 hours , at that time i changed the leaking high pressure port , then just recharged the system, that is when the clutch cycling started , the clutch engages for about 3or 4 seconds and then disengages , and the low side line doesn't get cool or wet ,, with condensation , so i drained the system and used a air compressor type vacuum pump to put a vacuum on the system , ran the vacuum at -29 for about a hour and then let the system hold a vacum for about 30 min it stayed at -29 then recharged the system with 3oz of pac oil and 3... 12oz cans of regular 134a and a 12oz can of 134a plus oil , the clutch tried to work better for a few tries and got a little cold out at the vents then went right back to the 2 or 3 sec engage and disengage, i used a wire and shorted the clutch relay switch plug and the clutch will stay engaged however does not cool very will and when i did the same to the high pressure switch on the bottom of the back of the compressor the clutch does nothing , (does not engage or disengage ) i also have a another high pressure switch at the high presser port ,, which the parts store tells me is like a back up high pressure switch in case the other switch doesn't work .properly to shut down the clutch. the clutch engages or disengages no matter what i do it that switch . ok , now the question ,, is it possible to have too much oil in the system because up till now all the freon ive used has had the 2oz of oil in it?? (which ive let all the stuff out of the system by changing the high pressure port ) and what can make the clutch engage and disengage like that and how do i fix it , , i feel that the clutch and compressor and the drier and orfice tube are probably good , because the system would work great until i changed the port and recharged the system with out pulling a vacuum ,, then recharging the system ,, ,, i also let some freon out bacause i thought i had to much in it , but it did not change the clutch problem ..
Sealer has made this very expensive for you. I suspect the OT and/or condenser is blocked with sealer. It'll just block again unless you get all the sealer out of the system. That probably means replacing everything.
yea i thought maybe the sealer might have been the cause , ,,, however the ac ran fine for two weeks after i put it in ,,,and i could hear the high pressure port leaking and feel it too when i shut the truck off , and the ac would work great every time i put 32 oz of freon in however it would leak it right back out ,, my real problem didnt start until i changed the port and didn't pull a vacuum on the system ,,
Is that sealer activated by water? If so, and you got air in there, you may have a real mess inside.
Once the system was opened up, air activated the sealer, which has likely now hardened. That's in theory how the sealer is supposed to fix leaks, but usually what happens is exactly what happened to your system - it plugged everything up.
This why we implore folks not to use recharge kits, sealers, conditioners, oils, or any "solutions" in a can.
TSR (Total System Replacement) is probably in order. It's unlikely there's anything that can be salvaged at this point from the ravages of the sealer.
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