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Air Conditioning Flush

CyFi on Wed July 23, 2008 5:01 PM User is offline

Year: 1987
Make: Toyota
Model: Supra
Engine Size: 3.0
Refrigerant Type: ES12
Ambient Temp: 75

Long version of problem located here.
Click here

Basic version: I think when filling my AC system, i overfilled the oil. I had no idea how much was in there, and put more oil in because i would rather be safe than sorry. Long story short, the AC does not blow as cool as i want it to, and i thin it is because i overfilled the oil. My question is, how to i get this oil out? I have heard of flushing the system, but it says you cannot flush through the compressor or expansion valve, and doesnt the compressor and evaporator hold a lot of oil? How to you get all that oil out so i can start from the beginning.

Ideally, i would like to get this whole system flushed out, and have a professional refill it with the proper oil and r12 and all, but this will cost a pretty penny. I am willing to fork over some money to get the system working right, but will any shops even work on a system that has this hydrocarbon refrigerant in it? Will they not just refuse to service it? How should i go about this?

Thanks for any help.

Edited: Wed July 23, 2008 at 6:02 PM by CyFi

william gunkel on Wed July 23, 2008 10:58 PM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: CyFi
Long version of problem located here.

Click here



Basic version: I think when filling my AC system, i overfilled the oil. I had no idea how much was in there, and put more oil in because i would rather be safe than sorry. Long story short, the AC does not blow as cool as i want it to, and i thin it is because i overfilled the oil. My question is, how to i get this oil out? I have heard of flushing the system, but it says you cannot flush through the compressor or expansion valve, and doesnt the compressor and evaporator hold a lot of oil? How to you get all that oil out so i can start from the beginning.



Ideally, i would like to get this whole system flushed out, and have a professional refill it with the proper oil and r12 and all, but this will cost a pretty penny. I am willing to fork over some money to get the system working right, but will any shops even work on a system that has this hydrocarbon refrigerant in it? Will they not just refuse to service it? How should i go about this?



Thanks for any help.To answer your question there is only one way to get the oil out and you said it, by flushing. This is not written in stone but a lot of systems hold around 8ozs of oil. (What I mean by that is a Jeep will hold 4.5 ozs and a Mercedes 5.8 ozs. etc.) Don't misunderstand what I am saying but I have tried Freeze 12, Hot Shot and finally I converted to R134a. Most shop will work on theR134a systems but don't mess with the others. How much oil do you have in the system? I like the idea of converting to R134a, it will (1) give you the opportunity to flush the system. (2) It will also save you money in the long run. (3) Give you a system that any shop will operate on. If you do convert I would use ESTER oil as it is compatible to any mineral oil left in the system.



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1981 Merdedes Benz 300SD 1991 Jeep Cherokee Limited Edition

CyFi on Thu July 24, 2008 2:48 AM User is offline

I just got a quote from a shop $150 to flush the system completely, and another $150 to evac and fill the system with r134a. Does this sound reasonable or should i keep looking? I think i want to give it to a shop to work on because i want this system to be working spot on.

TRB on Thu July 24, 2008 10:13 AM User is offlineView users profile

If they are doing a proper & complete system flush, that is a fair price. Evacuate and recharge also seems fair to me if they are using the correct refrigerant for the vehicle.

I would flush your system if the HC12 refrigerant was previously removed. I'm not going to take on the liability of storing and destroying an HC refrigerant.

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
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william gunkel on Thu July 24, 2008 11:46 AM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: CyFi
I just got a quote from a shop $150 to flush the system completely, and another $150 to evac and fill the system with r134a. Does this sound reasonable or should i keep looking? I think i want to give it to a shop to work on because i want this system to be working spot on.Yes, that does sound like a fair price. I would have a understanding of what all they were going to do before I got into it. I would like to see the compressor removed along with the expansion valve and dryer. Flush the system. Drain the oil from the compressor and measure it. Put the same amount plus 1oz, add new seals and install the compressor. The dryer will have to be replaced using new o rings and I would change out the expansion valve while I was at it. You can add the remaining oil to the dryer and or spread it up upstream. I would use ESTER oil as it compatible with mineral and PAG oils. Some might disagree but thats ok, on these R-12 conversions ESTER seems to do the job. Evacuate the system for 30 minutes, if no leaks charge the systen to 70% of the R-12. (Reason it is easy to keep count on the way up and you can allways add if needed after you let this settle in). Happy Trails.



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1981 Merdedes Benz 300SD 1991 Jeep Cherokee Limited Edition

TRB on Thu July 24, 2008 12:12 PM User is offlineView users profile

Nothing wrong with a quality Easter in my opinion.

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

iceman2555 on Thu July 24, 2008 12:38 PM User is offlineView users profile

If the system is being flushed and properly prepared for new lubrication, use either a quality PAG or POE....the choice is open.
Insure that the tech does a complete flush...removal of compressor and draining and refilling with correct lubricant is most important. Also that the evap is going to be flushed...for this vehicle, it must be removed from the vehicle to flush properly...insure that this it truly the method that they intend to use. If not, locate another shop.
Also, if the system is being cleaned and the correct amount of lubricant is being added to the system....the recharge rate should be app 85-90% of the R-12 spec. The 70% recharge was determined for a system that was maintaining the 'complete' OE charge of lubricant and another 'complete' charge of POE was being added.
Good luck...glad to see that the HC's are being removed.


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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson

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