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Jag chirps and quits at high rpm

aandy767 on Sun July 20, 2008 8:31 PM User is offline

Year: 2002
Make: Jaguar
Model: X type
Engine Size: 3.0
Refrigerant Type: 134
Ambient Temp: 102
Pressure Low: 68
Pressure High: 250

I've had the car about 5 weeks. Has worked fine for about 2000 miles. Then one day on the way to church do doubt. while reving pretty high the AC stopped blowing cold. Then started blowing cold after exiting the interstate.

So I drive the car a week, works a little better in the am cool morning. Fans are working. If I keep the rpm below 2000 it will blow cold all day, I think after 20 mile or so you just have to let the car go, it is a Jag don't you know.. If I rev it up the compressor starts to lock up belt squeals and stops cooling. One day the compressor lock up tight enough to burn a little belt. not a good smell.

So I take it to the local shop. Kid says the readings are ok but might need a little freon. And it cut out on him while driving it. And the compressor made some noise. Said he could top it off, Evac and Recharge. or start replacing stuff.

With his lack of confidence in the evac and recharge, I told him to top it off. He put in 12oz.

Today I borrow a set of 134 gauges. hook em up and at idle 68 and 250. I get the wife to hold the rpm at 2500 and the compressor starts to lock up, the clutch starts chirping and the compressor stops turns. Finally gets to about 115 and 140. I think the local guy said they did not try to equal out for him.?

Earlier in this trouble shoot, I think the clutch had a little more strength, and I was hearing belt noise.

Ford parts in a Jag box are not cheap. Orifce tube or expansion valve is $150. dryer $150. jag compressor $800.

The local guy charged 75 and said evac and refill would be 150. System over haul with jag parts 1600. I think I can hustle up some parts a little cheaper.

What's up? what are the possibilities? What should I checked next? probably should have don the evac and recharge. The puzzling think for me is how well it works below 2000 rpm.

Thanks Andy



Chick on Sun July 20, 2008 8:45 PM User is offlineView users profile

here's a link to the XJR not sure which you have, but in any case, the guys at Ackits.com can help you with parts. Sound's like overcharged, but changing the drier and checking the system by a "qualified" tech should help.. So to start, vac/recharge would be my first step since the kid added "12" ounces just on a hunch??

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

aandy767 on Mon July 21, 2008 7:09 PM User is offline

OK, If we swap the drier, we'll see if it's making any metal right? Are there any switches that could be closing? It's seems like a restriction to me?

Chick on Mon July 21, 2008 8:48 PM User is offlineView users profile

You need to recover and charge the system right to begin diagnosing. Feel the inlet and outlet of the drier, should be the same temp, if cooler coming out, there is a restriction in it. If it's an accumulator system (not sure with Jags) then the "accumulator" is on the low side and relies on the O tube screen..Thin you have a drier though.. You could have a contaminated system, air in it, etc giving those pressures. Always like to start with a known refrigerant amount on a car with no history..hope this helps..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Karl Hofmann on Tue July 22, 2008 5:31 AM User is offlineView users profile

Chick, the X Type is a four wheel drive Ford Mondeo (Contour?) in a posh party frock and I believe that the compressor is a version of the FS10. It is indeed an accumulator system, so it would pay to pull the O tube to have a look see...

I think that I should start exporting Jag parts to the US if Jag are charging those prices...

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Never knock on deaths door... Ring the doorbell and run away, death really hates that!

Chick on Tue July 22, 2008 6:18 AM User is offlineView users profile

Hey Karl, yeah a lot of strange things happened to the Jags since Ford bought them out.. I never saw that particular one, but had a feeling that Ford may have slipped an O tube in there... Yes, it should be checked, a lot can be told by looking at the tube... Hope this helps..

Karl, it looks like FORD did a good job of neutering that cat..O tubes, FS10's....is nothing sacred anymore...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Edited: Tue July 22, 2008 at 6:25 AM by Chick

Karl Hofmann on Tue July 22, 2008 1:32 PM User is offlineView users profile

To be fair to Ford, they did do something for the old cat that it badly needed... They made it acceptably reliable and made them not rust... They also made them cool again, they had become a bit of an old biffers car, so well done to Ford... Then they sod Jag to Tata of India.. Oh well!!!

On a totally different note, I got a call to look at an E60 BMW 5 Series, the ac seemed to be working, just not cool enough.. after having checked everything that I could think of, I spent a few minutes scratching my head whilst idly playing with the i-drive control... Suddenly, there was my answer... in the screen was a control menu for the climate control vent temperature and yes the vent temperature was set to it's highest setting.... DOH!!!

How unnecessarily overcomplicated do they have to make stuff????

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Never knock on deaths door... Ring the doorbell and run away, death really hates that!

aandy767 on Tue July 22, 2008 4:16 PM User is offline

Thanks guys,

I was shopping for a toyota so something with a little better gas milage than my one ton powerstroke. A camry with leather and 70k is about $13000. Picked this one up for $8000. when I get the ac working I think I'll still be ahead. The toyota may last longer but this little car is a heck of alota fun to drive. Bad a$$ stereo also. I've drive a tarus and this is no tarus. I was thinking I'd be ok with a ford power train.......... and AC.

OK found a rebuilt with a one year warranty for 145. rebuild shop also has an assortment of other ac parts. I don't know how hard it will be to get to the accumulator/dryer local guy said four hours. one hour for compressor, and one for o tube.

Here we go

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