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HT6 seal kits?

D.T. on Thu July 17, 2008 10:11 PM User is offline

Year: 1997
Make: GMC
Model: Jimmy
Refrigerant Type: 134a

I have 2 leaking HT6 compressors and I am going to try to make one good one out of them. I am getting a clutch puller tomorrow and I want to know which kit to get at ackits.com to stop the dreaded belly leak.

Will this one work?

O-ring kits

Do I need the shaft seal also? Any recommendations on how to?

Thanks in advance..

Dave

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Too many questions, not enough answers....

Edited: Thu July 17, 2008 at 10:12 PM by D.T.

TRB on Fri July 18, 2008 12:10 AM User is offlineView users profile

That item number should be what you are looking for in a case seal. Personally would change the shaft seal if I was going to the length of changing the case seals.

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

GM Tech on Fri July 18, 2008 8:04 AM User is offline

To replace the seals you must remove the heads- and when you do that you will ruin the shaft seal- so yes replace the shaft seal last..

Funny how that kit only shows 2 big case o-rings-- that compressor takes 3 total-- front head to front cylinder, front cylinder to rear cylinder, and rear head to rear cylinder all need new o-rings- and their sealing surfaces sanded down and cleaned free of corrosion

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

D.T. on Fri July 18, 2008 9:18 AM User is offline

Taking the compressor apart looks like a real mess. What are the torque values for the 6 main bolts that hold the whole compressor together?

I need the shaft seal too. Which one? Seal

Seems like there is a lot of funny things out there huh GM?

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Too many questions, not enough answers....

Edited: Fri July 18, 2008 at 9:22 AM by D.T.

GM Tech on Fri July 18, 2008 10:13 AM User is offline

Through- Bolt torque is 15.8 to 16.8 Nm as per the print-- I do so many- I merely use "mechanics" torque-- the bolts will break at the rear head threads at about 28 Nm give or take a few Nm-- But once you get a feel for it- the joint is forgiving enough- the bolts seals at about 6 Nm- the risks of overtorquing is only in breaking bolts- or in very rare cases- stripping the threads in the rear heads.. No big deal

Can't go wrong if you choose the one that fits the other compressors as well- like the V-5. The H-6 used a different seal for a while from about 2002 to 2004 or so and it was the only exception-

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

TRB on Fri July 18, 2008 11:05 AM User is offlineView users profile

This case seal kit has a few more items.

21-24681

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

D.T. on Fri July 18, 2008 10:05 PM User is offline

OK, so I got the puller/pusher clutch kit. Got the hub off and the pulley off. Now how do you get the coil off?

Also, what do you guys use to pressure test the parts? Nitrogen? Air? I'm sick of dumping 134a as a "leak detection medium." Where do you get nitrogen or CO2? Once I get the compressor together, I'd like to test it out of the system around the o-rings with soap solution.

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Too many questions, not enough answers....

GM Tech on Fri July 18, 2008 10:43 PM User is offline

I test the compressor off the vehicle with 134a and a sniffer-since I have a recovery machine- it is easy.. but lately I have been getting such positive results that I don't bother to test anymore- just hang the compressor on- haven't been bitten yet.

The coil comes off with two big screwdrivers- just put the compressor in a vice and work the coil off- it is prress fit. I have a special coil and pulley puller tool I use- much like a 2 jawed pukker- only with really thin hardened jaws- to put it back on, I tap it on with another wasted coil- works great- just make sure it is seated- you can hear the taps change when it seats- otherwise the puley will rub.

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

D.T. on Sat July 19, 2008 7:25 AM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: TRB
This case seal kit has a few more items.



21-24681


This kit seems incorrect, for a HR6. My first link is the kit I need. I may skip the center o-ring. Looks like a PITA to replace.

Other than that I got the coil off GM, thanks! Lots of corrosion. Looks like the new kit uses HNBR green o-rings instead of the black (? viton) o-rings. What did you use to clean the aluminum? Did you use o-ring lube to assemble it back together?


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Too many questions, not enough answers....

Edited: Sat July 19, 2008 at 7:27 AM by D.T.

GM Tech on Sat July 19, 2008 9:50 AM User is offline

I only clean the sealing surfaces- use sand paper and tissues- then use mineral oil to lube the o-rings

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

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