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Compressor clutch does not energize

dnobles on Sun July 06, 2008 3:48 PM User is offline

Year: 1995
Make: olds
Model: Delta 88
Engine Size: 3.8 L
Refrigerant Type: 134A
Ambient Temp: 90
Pressure Low: 110
Pressure High: 110
Country of Origin: United States


Compressor clutch does not energize, and does not have voltage at compressor. This is not a climate control unit. How can I check to ensure the A/C selector switch is sending a signal for the compressor clutch to energize? Are the high pressure switch, and clutch cycling switch on the negative or positive side. I'm a retired electrician and have, have refrigerant gauges and a good fluke meter for making checks. Would be of great help if someone could point me to a electrical print for the make and model.
ITRE

97windsatr3.8 on Sun July 06, 2008 3:59 PM User is offline


Most time low r134a cause lowside swith shut off compressor.
So, you can try to jump the low side switch and see if the clutch engage and get energy.

Also, you can directly to check the clutch driver engage or not, just use two wire directly connect one to the car body or negative terminal of 12v . Then Another connect the positive of 12v. This will let you check if the clutch work good or not.

This might give you some clue to see if the ac switch is good or not.

Edited: Sun July 06, 2008 at 4:07 PM by 97windsatr3.8

GM Tech on Sun July 06, 2008 5:10 PM User is offline

Jumper the cycling switch connector on the suction pump near the passenger strut tower mount...see if compressor comes on-- if pipe gets cold-- get new cycling switch-- if pipe stays warm-- you are out of refrigerant- due to a leak-- most likely the compressor shaft seal..

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

dnobles on Sun July 06, 2008 5:38 PM User is offline

Thanks for the suggestion. Jumping out the cycling switch does not work. I applied 12 volts to the clutch and the compressor runs and the suction line gets cold. I only ran it for a couple of minutes because I could not monitor the high pressure side. It would appear something else in the circuit was keeping it out. A relay, selector switch, or some other part. Maybe someone could point me to a electrical print for this make and modle.
IPRE







If you add "The" in front of IRS, you get Theirs

Chick on Sun July 06, 2008 5:46 PM User is offlineView users profile

Try switching the compressor relay with one like it in the relay box, does the car have manual AC or auto ac?

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

GM Tech on Sun July 06, 2008 6:30 PM User is offline

Your model vehicle is known for burnt contacts on the relay-- just bump it and it will probably come on-- then buy a new one..

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

dnobles on Sun July 06, 2008 7:29 PM User is offline

Thanks. The A/C is manual. It will be next weekend before I can check the relay, the car had gone to school for the week.

dnobles on Sun July 06, 2008 7:34 PM User is offline

Thanks. The A/C is manual. It will be next weekend before I can check the relay, the car had gone to school for the week. If anyone knows where I can download a electrical print for this car ( 1995, olds, delta 88 Royal, manual A/C) or if one is available for e-mail ([email protected]) I would be forever grateful.
IPRE

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