Engine Size: 5.7
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Country of Origin: United States
How much pressure can put into the system with nitrogen to check for leaks. I have put in 100 psi and I have a slow leak that I can't find???? I have used soapy water with no luck....Thanks Arne
Did you check "real" good all around the compressor? I would get a spray bottle of soap and spray the soap to totally cover the compressor in soap,
how bad is the leak? what? weekly, monthly, gets a little low.
Don't take life seriously... Its not permanent.
Edited: Sat July 05, 2008 at 6:05 PM by MrBillPro
It's a brand new compressor. I sprayed all the connections with soapy water with no luck. I've lost about 6 psi in about 4 hours.
Cris: You were right..It was the guage set. I repressured the system to 130psi with nitrogen and then disconnested the guage set and came back 4 hours later and the pressure was the same. Now should I just get a new guage set or replace the the guage itself. The hoses don't seem to be leaking???/ Arne
Even the EPA says it's okay to waste a can of R-134a that let's you use an electronic leak detector to find those leaks that apparently you don't have. Quick couplers always leak, but what are you suppose to do, that is the approved way of doing stuff.
Nick: Your right on. It was the low side quick coupler leaking. Quick question. I use 30 lb tanks. I am have problems trying to get the remaining gas out. Is using and electric blanket the answer?"??/ thanks Arne
If there's no liquid left in your 30 lb tank you will only be able to claim a tiny bit more refrigerant heating it up. Time for a new tank. Use a recovery machine to get the last few oz out before recycling the tank (it's steel).
Nick: Thanks for the reply.. Now that brings up another question...Is it better to charge a system as a gas or liquid????Arne
With a 30# tank or a 14 oz. can?
With a 30lb tank & scale, the best way is to charge liquid through the hige side into an evacuated system.
Move as much of the charge as you can into the stopped system under vacuum. By charging through the high side you avoid washing the oil out of the compressor as the liquid flows through the system. Getting most of the charge in before you start the compressor allows the system to begin returning oil to the compressor much sooner than vapor charging the low side on a running system.
Charge at idle, test @ 1500 to 2000 engine rpm. Once you get the factory charge into the system, you should test above idle. Doors open, cabin fan on high is a worst case system load. Testing at max load will give you peak pressure, something to check before sending a car down the road.
"Among the many misdeeds of the British rule in India, history will look upon the act of depriving a whole nation of arms, as the blackest."
~ Mahatma Gandhi, Gandhi, An Autobiography, M. K. Gandhi, page 446.
Edited: Wed July 09, 2008 at 1:21 PM by bohica2xo
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