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comp won't engage

joe_mn on Fri July 04, 2008 1:54 PM User is offline

Year: 1996
Make: caddy
Model: seville

i replaced my compressor. i vac'd the system and added 1/2 can of 134a. hooked up battery and started car. comp won't come on. i unhooked battery than restarted and comp cycled on for 5 sec than off, did this 3 times and can felt cold but than i heard a click towards the pass side firewall and comp cycled off and will not engage. dash says comp off, low refrig charge. codes ac1314, ac1315. how do i get the comp to run?

mk378 on Fri July 04, 2008 2:13 PM User is offline

Put more refrigerant in, then disconnect the battery to reset the computer. With the engine off, hold the can upside down and open both valves on the manifold to charge liquid. You should be able to put one or two cans in that way before starting the engine. Make sure the manifold valves are closed before starting the engine!

Dougflas on Fri July 04, 2008 4:11 PM User is offline

As stated above, you need more refrigerant in the system. You can place the cans in hot water to increase the pressure of the can of refrigerant to fprce it in the system.

Chick on Fri July 04, 2008 4:44 PM User is offlineView users profile

you need to disconnect the battery to get the compressor running again, unless it can be reset from the control head where you read the codes(some need a scan tool) but you have to get it in fast, try not to let it cycle, two people would help, one to turn the ac on while you charge the car, shut the ac off when changing cans and so on..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

joe_mn on Sat July 05, 2008 2:05 PM User is offline

you can access the codes thru the DIC. i go into the ACM mode and it says "AC1315", than "clear acm codes"? i clear them and the low refrig message pops up immediately. i cannot get the compressor to cycle on. could i apply 12v to the comp clutch connector? at least to get some additional 134a in? right now the high/low side have equalized at about 90psi. or can pressure i suppose.

GM Tech on Sat July 05, 2008 8:44 PM User is offline

Are you sure you don't have a B1315 code? That is the one that sets immediately--- it is the evap inlet thermistor shorted code- it happens anytime you put the orifice tube in the wrong way- or the wrong orifice tube in the right way-- the tube hits the thermistor and puts it against the pipe shorting it out--- B1347 and B1348 are the low refrigerant codes warning codes...

If so pull out the low side thermistor-- on the big pipe (a/c MUST be discharged first) and see if it is damaged......it is the exact same part number as the high side thermistor on the smaller line.

If you unplug the thermistor- the code should immediately set but to an open cicuit code of B1314....

I'm doing this from memory- but I think it is right.......since I've seen it so many times-- low refrigerant codes DON'T set immediately.....takes several cycles...

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

joe_mn on Sat July 05, 2008 11:47 PM User is offline

dang, your good. i beat you to it though. yes, the OT was in backwards. i put in 24oz and am getting 50 degree vents temps. the tag says to put in 32 oz. i will get some more tomorrow. the ambient temp is 85 and my high side pressure is 225. i did not check my low side.

GM Tech on Sun July 06, 2008 9:17 AM User is offline

Were you able to still use the thermistor? once you straightened it out?

Sure feels good to "win one" once in awhile.......it's like playing trivial pursuit.

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

joe_mn on Sun July 06, 2008 12:57 PM User is offline

i unbolted the nut and looked inside the tube. hmm, where did the OT go? it was in about 2". i took out the thermistor and the tip was slightly bent but looked ok. i got the OT out and noticed an arrow molded into the body. is that pointing upstream or downstream? i am a little leery about claiming victory yet. i will feel better a month from now if everything still works.

GM Tech on Sun July 06, 2008 1:44 PM User is offline

The big 10-window screen ALWAYS is the entrance to OT-- the little short end screen is exit--- and the cross tabs are always what goes in last- so the supposed OT tool can grasp the tabs.

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

joe_mn on Sun July 06, 2008 10:09 PM User is offline

the ac1315 code came back. i pulled it out and it looks ok. i ran the car with the thermistor out but plugged into the harness and i still got the code. so i switched sensors with the one before the OT. now i get a code, AC1313. you said they were the same sensor, just different places so i figure the sensor is damaged somehow. probably from the OT jamming into it. is that a dealer only item or do most auto parts stores carry them?

GM Tech on Mon July 07, 2008 8:07 AM User is offline

A 1313 code is now high side thermistor shorted-- so yes you are right- that is how I test them- transfer them and see it code follows the sensor-- New ones can be bought at Dealer or any A/C Delco outlet

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

joe_mn on Mon July 07, 2008 8:35 PM User is offline

i like threads with a happy ending. got the new thermistor and a/c works fine. of course it lasted 1 day last time but that was with the suspect thermistor. now i have a new one. maybe it will last longer. a 96 seville has a HD6? when they fail internally do they throw metal bits into the system or is it some type of phenolic? i do not know exactly what the guts of the compressor has. is it a vane style or piston style or what? the old one spins fine, no funny noises. just no pressure. my highest output psi was 125psi with a full charge.

GM Tech on Mon July 07, 2008 10:19 PM User is offline

They put stainless steel schrapnel in the system-- it is a piston type compressor- spins with one finger with little catches if imploded.....

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

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