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Oil and Reman ?

D.T. on Wed July 02, 2008 7:33 PM User is offline

Which oil do you use for a HT-6 GM compressor? I seen PAG 46 and PAG 150. Looks like I need 8 oz. Dealer wanted $32 for 8 oz of AC delco oil.

Any place you can send a leaky HT-6 compressor for a rebuild? Mine leaks around the o- rings around the body in the center.l

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Too many questions, not enough answers....

MrBillPro on Wed July 02, 2008 8:18 PM User is offlineView users profile

BVA Auto 100 (POE) is supposed to be a good oil for 134a, but I have to ask are your sure your "compressor" needs 8 oz. of oil?
I just did mine about two months ago same compressor and I was told 4oz. of oil in the compressor by a GM mechanic here in Houston
and it's working fine no noise, all has been well, but I could have been given the wrong info also, just wondering.

Edit:
By the way mine is on a 98 GMC 1500 ext. cab 350 5.7 maybe it's a different version of the HT-6 you have.

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Don't take life seriously... Its not permanent.

Edited: Wed July 02, 2008 at 8:22 PM by MrBillPro

TRB on Wed July 02, 2008 10:09 PM User is offlineView users profile

Compressor Type Harrison HD6/HT6 6-Cyl.
Refrigerant (R-134a) Capacity
Pickup & Sierra 32 ozs.
Crew Cab & Utility 36 ozs.
Suburban, Tahoe & Yukon
With Rear Unit 64 ozs.
Without Rear Unit 36 ozs.
System Oil Capacity
Pickup & Sierra 8 ozs.
Crew Cab & Utility 8 ozs.
Suburban, Tahoe & Yukon
With Rear Unit 11 ozs.
Without Rear Unit 8 ozs.

System Operating Pressures
High Side 320 psi (22.5 kg/cm2 )
Low Side 28 psi (2.0 kg/cm2 )

Specification is with ambient temperature at 80°F (27°C), relative humidity of 60 percent and engine speed at 2000 RPM.


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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

MrBillPro on Thu July 03, 2008 1:00 AM User is offlineView users profile

So Tim should I go back and add more oil to mine although it quite as a church mouse? The mechanic told me 4 oz. to the new compressor when
I installed it and I would be good to go, he said because I probably have some in the evap. and accumulator, now I am worried but trust me this
thing is real quite so quite it almost scares me, but it has been working fantastic I am afraid to touch it.

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Don't take life seriously... Its not permanent.

Edited: Thu July 03, 2008 at 1:00 AM by MrBillPro

TRB on Thu July 03, 2008 1:25 AM User is offlineView users profile

If you did not flush you're probably alright where you are. If you did and started with a clean system you're short on oil.

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

MrBillPro on Thu July 03, 2008 10:08 AM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: TRB
If you did not flush you're probably alright where you are. If you did and started with a clean system you're short on oil.

I did flush the condenser but hardly nothing if anything at all came out of there, unless the condenser don't hold much oil in an auto a/c system.



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Don't take life seriously... Its not permanent.

TRB on Thu July 03, 2008 10:44 AM User is offlineView users profile

Condenser may hold about an once two at the most. Evap about the same. You could be a couple ounces low with the data provided in my opinion.

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

HECAT on Thu July 03, 2008 11:20 AM User is offline

The condenser design may have only held 1 ounce or less of oil, thus little seen when flushing. If the evap was not flushed and accumulator not changed (can't be flushed); then you probably have more than the four ounces of oil that was added, in there. The accumulator tends to accumulate the oil (thus the name) and meters it to the compressor through the hole in the J tube, it may have held 2 or 3 ounces itself.

Oil balancing (adding back for specific component change) does work, but only when the oil in the system is clean and was at the correct level to start with. This however, is becoming more and more of a rare find in aftermarket repair.





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HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

MrBillPro on Thu July 03, 2008 1:19 PM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: HECAT
If the evap was not flushed and accumulator not changed (can't be flushed);

Well buddy you know as a commercial and residential a/c tech, I try to always do anything to do with refrigeration 100% correct, but when I started twisting on my GMC accumulator nut and the evaporator line starts twisting, I thought I would leave it as is, since the was a bad valves only compressor replacement, I figure I was good to go with the care I took, a flush of the condenser, replacement of the orifice, added 4oz. of oil back and a good long vacuum.



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Don't take life seriously... Its not permanent.

HECAT on Thu July 03, 2008 4:52 PM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: MrBillPro
Quote
I try to always do anything to do with refrigeration 100% correct, but when I started twisting on my GMC accumulator nut and the evaporator line starts twisting, I thought I would leave it as is, since the was a bad valves only compressor replacement, I figure I was good to go with the care I took, a flush of the condenser, replacement of the orifice, added 4oz. of oil back and a good long vacuum.


No, I am not questioning or have any doubt of your professionalism. My comments were to indicate that you should be OK, or may only be an ounce or two low as TRB stated.

If the orifice was not loaded with debris, I am sure I would have done the same; if it were mine.

Have a great 4th of July !!!!



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HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

MrBillPro on Thu July 03, 2008 7:35 PM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: HECAT

No, I am not questioning or have any doubt of your professionalism.


Have a great 4th of July !!!!


Hey I knew that, sorry if I seemed to make you feel that way that was not my intentions at all, have a Blessed 4th.
Mr. Bill

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Don't take life seriously... Its not permanent.

Chick on Thu July 03, 2008 8:11 PM User is offlineView users profile

Thats just Mrbillpro being mean.... happy forth to you to bill...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

D.T. on Fri July 04, 2008 8:33 AM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: TRB
Compressor Type Harrison HD6/HT6 6-Cyl.

Refrigerant (R-134a) Capacity

Pickup & Sierra 32 ozs.

Crew Cab & Utility 36 ozs.

Suburban, Tahoe & Yukon

With Rear Unit 64 ozs.

Without Rear Unit 36 ozs.

System Oil Capacity

Pickup & Sierra 8 ozs.

Crew Cab & Utility 8 ozs.

Suburban, Tahoe & Yukon

With Rear Unit 11 ozs.

Without Rear Unit 8 ozs.



System Operating Pressures

High Side 320 psi (22.5 kg/cm2 )

Low Side 28 psi (2.0 kg/cm2 )



Specification is with ambient temperature at 80°F (27°C), relative humidity of 60 percent and engine speed at 2000 RPM.


Thanks but what's the rear unit?

I see there are PAG 46, 100 and 150. Which viscosity should I use?


No advice on how to fix a compressor?

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Too many questions, not enough answers....

Edited: Fri July 04, 2008 at 8:43 AM by D.T.

TRB on Fri July 04, 2008 11:22 AM User is offlineView users profile

Front and rear system like on a Suburban. Some vehicle have them some will not.

What's the application for the compressor? Cost the same to send one in and have it reworked as it does to buy a re-manufactured model form our site. Depending on the application there may be a new Seltec or Sanden knock off for cost tot he same cost.

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

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