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Ongoing AC Issues

cedjunior on Sat June 28, 2008 1:29 PM User is offline

Year: 1995
Make: Chevrolet
Model: K1500
Engine Size: 5.7
Refrigerant Type: R134
Country of Origin: United States

So this is my issue. I had the AC system evac'd and recharged.

-The problem I'm having is it gets cool(not completely cold though) when the truck is first started. After 5-10 min it then cycles warm, then cool a few times until it just goes warm.

-If I'm driving at highway speed and it goes warm, and if I push the clutch and rev the engine real high one or 2 times, it will get cool again for a few min. If I'm doing any driving that involves stopping and going, the AC will usually get cool again when I pull away from a light/stop sign when the RPM's go higher.

-Also, if I leave my truck idling for 10 min or so, the AC will get very cold (as cold as it should be), but as soon as start driving it gets warm again.

Things not causing this problem:
-Thermal fan clutch, I temporarily put on a sever duty fan clutch, my truck sounded like a jet engine even at highway speed, had no effect.

-Debris in the Condenser. Water sprayed from a regular garden hose pointed at the grill goes right through both the condenser and the radiator and hits the front of the engine.


Yesterday the shop that is working with me on this AC issue. What the mechanic was showing me was that the compressor clutch was not engaging. He then tapped the front of the clutch with a screwdriver handle I could see the front of the clutch physically popping in and the compressor would start running. Could this cause the problem I'm having?

He told me I could go ahead and have the clutch replaced, but it'd probably be better to replace the whole compressor/clutch, receiver/dryer, and orifice tube all at the same time (for some $800).

So what would you do, just replace the clutch? Replace the whole shot (they'll evac the system for me and recharge it if I want to do it myself)?

GM Tech on Sat June 28, 2008 2:36 PM User is offline

I'd adjust the air gap to .020"

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

cedjunior on Sat June 28, 2008 2:50 PM User is offline

Sounds easy enough. Only I don't have any idea how to do it. Maybe a quick rundown of the procedure? I'd greatly appreciate it.
I'll break out the feeler gauges and check the gap when I get home from work. I'd be pretty happy if something this simple can solve my problem.

GM Tech on Sat June 28, 2008 2:53 PM User is offline

Borrow the tool from autozone for free.....search Chicks replys for how to do it

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

cedjunior on Sat June 28, 2008 4:48 PM User is offline

Thanks for your help so far. I found the instructions you were referring to, except for one question.

As I understand it you used the clutch removal/install tool to press the clutch on further to close the air gap. Is that it? Do I have to tighten anything down afterwards? Or does the adjustment stay set just like that? Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm just used to things being harder than they seem, not easier!

Chick on Sat June 28, 2008 5:10 PM User is offlineView users profile

The hub is press fit, once adjusted it will stay until it wears again..The "nut" if you have one, doesn't interfere with the adjusting of the clutch, and can be left off as newer ones are..Hope this helps..

-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

cedjunior on Sat June 28, 2008 5:14 PM User is offline

Definitely helped. Thanks, both of you. The guy at the shop where I had the AC evac'd and recharged was trying to push that $800 compressor job on me with a big grin on his face.

cedjunior on Sat June 28, 2008 7:26 PM User is offline

Unfortunately I went to Autozone and when I asked them if they had a compressor clutch installer they handed me part no. 27007 which said it was for Chrysler vehicles even though I told them GM. Of course it didn't fit, and when I asked them if they had any kits or something where I might find a more "universal" tool, they said no thats all they carry.

Does anyone happen to know the part number for the tool/set that I need to be renting from them? Otherwise they're just going to keep looking at me stupid.

Chick on Sat June 28, 2008 7:40 PM User is offlineView users profile

These are the "mastercool" numbers for the installer for GM

Clutch installer tool 91260 - nut & bearing for tool #90458

If you can't find one locally, Ackits.com sells them, and even the master tool kit. Just drop them an e-mail at [email protected] for prices. You would probably need the removal tool also, in case you push it in to far... Hope this helps..


-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick

---------------------------------------------

Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

GM Tech on Sat June 28, 2008 10:22 PM User is offline

Your mechanic probably has a boat payment due this week.........

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

cedjunior on Sat July 05, 2008 2:33 PM User is offline

Just an update here. I finally got a clutch installer delivered. Checked the air gap, I gave up trying to measure it once I hit like .050 ", feeler gauges were starting to stack up. Anyway I went at it with the installation tool, clutch is pretty straight so got it very close, probably .017" without any scraping. AC works like a charm now.

Thanks to both of you for your time and help. I greatly appreciate it.

Edited: Sat July 05, 2008 at 2:44 PM by cedjunior

fonebone on Sat July 05, 2008 11:45 PM User is offline

Hi cedjunior; Great to hear success stories like yours! We all love to hear them. It's a great feeling to tackle something like this, learn, and see the results. Thanks for letting us know of your results. Many never do, for one reason or another.

GM Tech on Sun July 06, 2008 9:21 AM User is offline

So what do you do with the $750 you saved? Your poor mechanic needs to learn how to please his customers-- not take advantage of them...

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

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