I discovered that the fitting on the top of my York compressor for the suction side is broken and has allowed the system to be open to the atmosphere. I don't know when this happened, but I'm interested in getting the system going again but need to know if this might be an issue. I've got another York that I can put in its place that has a good fitting on the head. I will change the oil in the compressor. Where can I get an o-ring for the fill plug? Will a common hardware store one work?
Of course, I'm planning on replacing the drier and pulling a vacuum on the system before I recharge it. It's an old Volvo 240 with r12 and I'm going to stay with that refrigerant. I dont' want to spend the time/effort if the system might be shot due to it being opened for an unknown length of time.
Edited: Sat June 21, 2008 at 1:05 PM by wrenwright
Buy the correct Oring from an auto parts house, evacuate the system properly, put in a partial charge of R134 to use as a leak test. Then recover that charge, change the drier, add oil after checking the level of the compressor. You said the comp is a York so yopu can measure the oil level with a York dipstick. Look in manuals for the specs how to make a dipstick and read the level. Put some oil in the drier (an oz should do it) , evacuate properly, and recharge. Make sure the fittings and hose assy's have clearance and all clamps are in place. Haven't heard of Volvos breaking fittings as the Chyslers did.
I going to keep the system R12, but I can use a partial charge of r134 to check the system for leaks? I thought r12 and r134 were contaminates of each other. This isn't a concern?
Edited: Sat June 21, 2008 at 7:41 PM by wrenwright
You can put R-134a in to leak test an R-12 system as described. Of course, do not run the compressor. You only need a few ounces of R-134a. Do not put in so much that it reaches saturation pressure (where liquid will exist in the system). The only potential problem is it could damage some old driers but you're going to replace it anyway. New driers are all compatible with either.
Also check that dust didn't get in, you may want to flush the hose that connected to the broken fitting. Mineral oil does not mix with water like POE or PAG does so you don't have to worry about dampness so much, but pulling a vacuum for several hours would not hurt.
So what is the process for doing this? Just put five or six ounces in and then monitor the pressure on the gauges for a decrease?
Is it possible to use compressed air for this test since I will be vacuum evacuating the system and replacing the drier? I have a drier in-line with my air compressor as I use to for spray painting by the way.
Is there a link that someone coule provide that has a detailed explaination?
Edited: Sun June 22, 2008 at 11:38 AM by wrenwright
The reason to use R-134a is it can be detected with an electronic leak detector. Not having one of those, you could just use the dry air instead. Watch for the pressure to go down and apply soapy water to all the connections.
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