Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum (Archives)

Provided by www.ACkits.com

We've updated our forums!
Click here to visit the new forum

Archive Home

Search Auto AC Forum Archives

Frist timer Pages: 12

WanaBeCoolAgain on Fri June 20, 2008 12:31 AM User is offline

Year: 1998
Make: chevy
Model: S-10
Engine Size: 2.2
Country of Origin: United States

Hello Everyone Nice place,
Well My A/C compressor took a Dump as far as i know it sounded like a cement mixer with rocks in it only
I could feel something was wrong when i had my hand on my stick thought it might be a Idler pulley till i turned off the A/C but it was still blowing cold when i turned it off. when i got to where i was going i pooped the hood turned it back on and the noise was pretty bad coming from the compressor i went back to the cab and it stoped blowing cold.
Ok BTW.. i went out and bought a compressor kit with all the goodies compressor, Orfis tube, Accumulater, and a can of flush and some PAG Oil 150. i do everything i can as far as repairs to my owen stuff (can't afford to pay the big bucks) Im pretty machanicly inclined i repair office equment for a living. OK i Just would like to know stuff like the best way to flush stuff how much oil and witch port do i put the oil in. how much oil do i put in the accumulator. If theres anything i missed please fill in the blanks.. oh and im not going to recharge the system i don't have the Equment or the knowledge to do that part.
Thank You All in advance.
1998
Isuzu/ S-10
2.2

Chick on Fri June 20, 2008 6:52 AM User is offlineView users profile

This is the flushing procedure listed in the FAQ page of the forum. Be sure to change all the O rings when opening lines..Use PAG 150 viscosity oil, I believe 8 ounces with the V5 compressor. Split it up best you can, make sure a few ounces are in the compressor, as you don't want a dry start.. Fill thru the drain plug on the body of the compressor, otherwise it leaks out if you're not fast enough..
You can get all your "quality" parts right here at
Ackits.com from O rings to compressors.. Hope this helps..

-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick

---------------------------------------------

Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

iceman2555 on Fri June 20, 2008 9:42 AM User is offlineView users profile

As Chick states, make sure lube is added to the 'plug' on the case of the compressor. Failure to add to this section may result in immediate compressor failure. 3-4 oz in the compressor is good....simply add the remainder into the inlet side of the accumulator. This will insure a good lube flow at start up. Insure that whomever recharges the system does it correctly.
What type flush was in this "kit"? Insure that the flush is not a oil based chemical......they do not do clean completely and are impossible to remove from the system.
Also with the 'noise' issue stated....there is very good chance that the system is severely contaminated with debris...if this is so....suggest to replace the condenser on this vehicle also.
Good luck!!!

-------------------------
The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson

mk378 on Fri June 20, 2008 11:52 AM User is offline

After having the refrigerant removed (assuming compressor seal didn't blow and it's not already gone), start by inspecting your orifice tube. If it has a lot of metal on it you have heavy debris and should buy a new condenser, your old one will never come clean especially not with flush in a can.

After making the inspection close up the line again, don't leave lines open any longer than you need to.

iceman2555 on Fri June 20, 2008 12:20 PM User is offlineView users profile

The aspect of 'reading' an orifice tube for system contamination is, of course, very valid. However, what is beginning to become evident is that the amount of debris located on the orifice is no longer truly indicative of the amount of debris being produced by the compressor failure. We are beginning to see orifice tubes that are retaliative clean (some discoloration but little debris) but still have serious condenser contamination. The much smaller flow orifices of the PFHE condensers are becoming the 'primary' filter for the system. Some of the flow orifices are less than .015" in diameter.

-------------------------
The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson



Edited: Fri June 20, 2008 at 12:20 PM by iceman2555

WanaBeCoolAgain on Sat June 21, 2008 2:02 AM User is offline

I have a 20 OZ. can of supercool flush. i haven't done the job yet to fricken hot and the swamp cooler was acting up.. now that it's fixed on to the truck. as for the oil in to be installed in the plug? where is that loacted.. sorry for the extra Quistions But i feel it's better to ask then just guess. i don't the money to do this again.
Thanks You

bigkev on Sat June 21, 2008 2:08 AM User is offline



"when i got to where i was going i pooped the hood turned it back on and the noise was pretty bad coming from the compressor i went back to the cab and it stoped blowing cold"

Didnt that hurt when you "pooped the hood"? Also I bet the noise was not the compressor if you pooped the hood.

Edited: Sat June 21, 2008 at 2:11 AM by bigkev

Chick on Sat June 21, 2008 6:29 AM User is offlineView users profile

On V5 compressors the drain plug is in the middle, as the below pic shows. Hope this helps..



-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick

---------------------------------------------

Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

WanaBeCoolAgain on Sat June 21, 2008 4:29 PM User is offline

Didnt that hurt when you "pooped the hood"? Also I bet the noise was not the compressor if you pooped the hood.

i'm a victim of public education!! LOL..

I believe 8 ounces with the V5 compressor. Split it up best you can, make sure a few ounces are in the compressor, as you don't want a dry start.. Fill thru the drain plug on the body of the compressor, otherwise it leaks out if you're not fast enough..


so thats a total of 8oz. in the system right? 4 in the accumulator/dryer and 4 in the compressor filled threw the plug only correct?

simply add the remainder into the inlet side of the accumulator. This will insure a good lube flow at start up.

Witch side is the inlet side?

Here are a couple pics of what i have.. Sorry for the dumb questions but if your not sure i don't think they are.

I guess i can't up load pics

thank you

mk378 on Sat June 21, 2008 4:40 PM User is offline

The compressor is the only part that needs oil, as long as it has some in the sump (filled thru the plug in the side) it doesn't matter much where you put the rest. It circulates around rapidly. The inlet of the accumulator is the line that goes to the evaporator; the one not connected to the compressor.

If you have debris in the condenser and don't replace it you will be doing it all over again. It is possible though that you just had a pulley bearing failure.

bigkev on Sat June 21, 2008 11:49 PM User is offline

1998 chevy S10 2.2

I looked up your oil and i am coming up with 9 oz for the 2.2. Its showing 8 oz for the 4.3

WanaBeCoolAgain on Sun June 22, 2008 10:57 PM User is offline

Just wanted to post.. I hate it when we don't get the outcome when we help others in the office equipment forums i frequent. i still haven't done the job.. the reason is.. no fricken O-ring kit!! calling first thing tomorrow morning so i can get on this first thing and it's cooler out too.. under 100 tomorrow Hooray!
I will post the results as soon as i know lol.

Thanks

Chick on Mon June 23, 2008 7:01 AM User is offlineView users profile

we appreciate follow ups. Thank you...

-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick

---------------------------------------------

Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

WanaBeCoolAgain on Mon June 23, 2008 4:01 PM User is offline

accumulate/ Dryer wont come off evaporator side. had 2 wrenches on it but the nut seems like it might been stuck on the Evaporator side the Accumulater it's lose but nut on the flange side of the Evaporator is stuck i started twisting the flange a pinch freaked out on that but it's back where it belongs (on twisted) what now?
Thanks

Chick on Mon June 23, 2008 5:43 PM User is offlineView users profile

Thats why we use nylog on all threads, they will never freeze together again... Looks like you'll either have to chance leaving it on, or change the evaporator with it. The threads are going to come right off the evap once they are frozen. Some have tried drilling a small hole thru the nut and allow penetrating oil to soak into the threads, hopefully yours haven't pulled off yet..

-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick

---------------------------------------------

Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

WanaBeCoolAgain on Mon June 23, 2008 7:01 PM User is offline

the accumulate/ Dryer is lose well now off i cut the!!! off the nut on the evaporator spun right off. the brass nut on the evaporator won't spin!! Blah!! lol i have used PB blaster but it's still on there like a rock.. any thoughts?

mk378 on Mon June 23, 2008 8:20 PM User is offline

The fitting on the evaporator is not supposed to spin! It's welded to the pipe. The nut on the accumulator spins and pulls the parts together. The evaporator fitting has a hex on it so you can hold it with a wrench and not twist the pipe when attaching the accumulator.

WanaBeCoolAgain on Mon June 23, 2008 8:33 PM User is offline

The fitting on the evaporator is not supposed to spin! It's welded to the pipe. The nut on the accumulator spins and pulls the parts together. The evaporator fitting has a hex on it so you can hold it with a wrench and not twist the pipe when attaching the accumulator.

Nope the nut on the accumulator is welded on the new one and the old one.
But you made me look..LOL.

WanaBeCoolAgain on Tue June 24, 2008 10:24 AM User is offline

Anyone?

WanaBeCoolAgain on Tue June 24, 2008 3:03 PM User is offline

any tips, tricks SHORT CUTS..lol.. on removing the evaporator?
Thank You

mk378 on Tue June 24, 2008 3:10 PM User is offline

Did you try heating the nut with a torch? It might make the metal expand and break it loose. Ending up having to replace the evaporator anyway, you have nothing to lose at this point. Unless the truck catches on fire.

WanaBeCoolAgain on Tue June 24, 2008 3:17 PM User is offline

yes i have thought of that and thats what might start a forest fire.. don't want that so i figerd it would be best to remove it then try the heat or at least have a new end welded on if it's worth it.

WanaBeCoolAgain on Tue June 24, 2008 9:10 PM User is offline

never mind .. took out the inner fender puff price of cake..

bigkev on Wed June 25, 2008 12:16 AM User is offline

you got cake? I want some! So, are you cool again or what?

WanaBeCoolAgain on Wed June 25, 2008 1:23 AM User is offline

nope out money.. but thats ok for a few days.. business is slow and i need the truck back on the road for now.. im taking the evaporator to a local A/C shop see what they say and have it flushed if saveable and i want a new condenser and pump hoses too. it's twice the work but i don't care got some really good pricing from Jack this morning so when i get some more $$ i will finish the job
and it will be done right. and job will go much faster.
oh reason i want the rest of the stuff is.. when i pulled the orfes tube it was packed and there was shinny stuff in there IE: black death from what i have read. I read theres really no way to flush that out eather. well in a garage setting that is.

Back to Automotive Air Conditioning Forum

We've updated our forums!
Click here to visit the new forum

Archive Home

Copyright © 2016 Arizona Mobile Air Inc.