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Clutch engages. No cooling Part II

AC Amiture on Mon June 16, 2008 2:53 PM User is offline

Year: 2003
Make: Chev
Model: S-10
Engine Size: 1.5?
Refrigerant Type: r-134
Country of Origin: United States

here's what I found this weekend.

Pulled the Accumulator/Dryer and got the Orifice Tube out. Overall, the system looks pretty clean. None of the black stuff and little chunks/particles everywhere that I saw when my daughter's compressor failed. The tube screens are clean. There is just a little bit of fine black "dust" on the tub surfaces. Doesn't look like much to me. I think that changing the control valve in the compressor is worth a try. What do you all think?

GM Tech on Mon June 16, 2008 3:10 PM User is offline

What are your symptoms? not cooling? what are your pressures prior to opening it up? number one cause of a/c failure is loss of refrigerant due to a leak-- how do you know you have enough refrigernat in the system? Your variable stroke V-7 compressor will run with as little as 4 ounces of refrifgerant in it-- when it needs about 30 ounces-- so we need more order to advise

The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

AC Amiture on Mon June 16, 2008 3:57 PM User is offline


Maybe it would have been better to just update my old post about this problem but here are some quotes that should help.

" Well, Gauges on today. Engine running System ON. low side is 111. High side is 120.

This looks a lot like: "If you have a control valve failure (inside the compressor) the low side will be quite high, possibly with little difference between the low and high."

What advice do you all have?

Is this pretty conclusive or are there some other steps I should take?

"The control valve can be pulled and replaced without buying a whole compressor."

And this is by GM Tech on June 8th.

" It's either the control valve or a wiped out internals on the compressor-- My money is on the bum internals.

the orifce tube is in the loop as it goes into the evaporator- you have to remove the A/D to make for easier access- lokk for the connection and dimples in the liquid line from the condenser to the evap... "

This is why I pulled the O/T and looked at it. As previously stated the tube seemed fairly clean.

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