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Anyone use acetone for drying a/c parts?

mrvmax on Sat June 14, 2008 11:25 AM User is offline

Year: 1996
Make: Ford
Model: F350
Engine Size: 7.3
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Country of Origin: United States

I know I've seen recommended mineral spirits, carb cleaner etc. At work we use a lot of acetone and it removes water and oils and has a fairly low boiling point so it evaporates quickly. I used the Safe Flush from AMA to get the old oil out, but since my compressed air has moisture in it I thought about using acetone to dry things out before I assemble the parts. I planned on flushing some acetone and letting it dry for a day so the acetone would evaporate and leave residue free parts. Thoughts?

TRB on Sat June 14, 2008 11:51 AM User is offlineView users profile

Acetone is very flammable but will clean things well. Personally I would not use it because of the dangers.

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mrvmax on Sat June 14, 2008 12:27 PM User is offline

So flammability is the main concern? I can understand that, but I've been using it at work for 13 years now so I'm accustomed to working with it.

mk378 on Sat June 14, 2008 1:05 PM User is offline

As I'm sure you're aware, acetone strongly attacks many kinds of plastic, rubber, and paint. If you 're fluhsing only metal parts it'll be fine.

You could get set up with a tank of nitrogen and a regulator. Use that for the final blow-out of flush to avoid water problems. Dry nitrogen is also useful to put a system under pressure for leak testing.

TRB on Sat June 14, 2008 1:23 PM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: mk378
As I'm sure you're aware, acetone strongly attacks many kinds of plastic, rubber, and paint. If you 're fluhsing only metal parts it'll be fine.



You could get set up with a tank of nitrogen and a regulator. Use that for the final blow-out of flush to avoid water problems. Dry nitrogen is also useful to put a system under pressure for leak testing.

Agreed, nitrogen is the preferred method to remove the Hecat Flush or any other flushing agent.



-------------------------
When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

mrvmax on Sat June 14, 2008 1:39 PM User is offline

The problem is getting nitrogen and a regulator. For the average DIY it's not too easy.

HECAT on Mon June 16, 2008 11:50 AM User is offline

A quality filter/separator for your air line should remove the moisture and compressor oils found in your air supply. This is a good practice to protect many if not all of your air tools.

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FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

marvin-miller on Mon June 16, 2008 8:50 PM User is offline

I used acetone once on metal parts and it worked really well. I thought I'd finally found the ultimate flush.....but..... the residual vapors played absolute hell with my vacuum pump - I considered myself very fortunate that changing the pump oil twice was all that was required (as opposed to overhauling my vacuum pump).

That's without even cosidering what residual vapors would do to the A/C system itself....

I wouldn't recommend it. It is a wonderful cleaner for metal parts but the vapors are absolutely killer on everything else....

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Best & Thanks;
Marvin

mrvmax on Tue June 17, 2008 9:08 PM User is offline

At 100 degrees for 4 days I do not have to worry about residual. The acetone will evaporate at this temp. I was trying to mainly get out the old oil and clean the evap, it served it's purpose.

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