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NEW acdelco Compressor? Bad?

Ghwagon on Fri May 30, 2008 8:15 PM User is offline

Year: 1992
Make: Oldsmobile
Model: Custom Cruiser
Engine Size: 305

I bought an AC delco Compressor (r4) For my 92 Olds Custom Cruiser..

Before installing it I tried to turn the compressor shaft.. It wont move.

I go over to the old compressor, It turns like butter.. I go over to my other car with an r4 compressor.. Turns over easy...

What is the deal? Is the New AC delco compressor jammed up? Should I even bother trying to charge it?

It also had Oil in the compressor, when the box has "shipped w/o oil" written allover it... I drained it.. Added 8oz of pag 150 to the Compressor.. Not anyplace else in the system, Just the compressor.

Let me know what you think... Im upset after completing this job and possible having a bad compressor.

Edited: Fri May 30, 2008 at 8:16 PM by Ghwagon

GM Tech on Fri May 30, 2008 9:53 PM User is offline

Put a spanner wrench on it-- the teflon rings are probably swelled a little- causing high friction- I'd bet as soon as you turn it on- it will take off and run like any other compressor- just need broken in a little- then will turn like butter after a few hours run time...

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

Chick on Fri May 30, 2008 10:20 PM User is offlineView users profile

As GM Tech staed, this is not uncommon, charge the system up after you have the correct amount of oil, start the system, and it will be fine. If you have a spanner wrench, use it, if not, once it starts it should be fine. Hope this helps..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

chris142 on Fri May 30, 2008 10:27 PM User is offline

Ya your gonna have a hard time turning a new one.

TRB on Fri May 30, 2008 10:44 PM User is offlineView users profile

You will have a hard time turning our vendors remans also. People think they are defective. Actually it's good to have a tight compressor. Spanner wrench or even cycling the a/c button will help break in the compressor. We usually do that on all our compressor repairs as we start the charging procedure. Helps to break in the compressor and not slug it with refrigerant or oil. Flip the switch on for a second or two and off for a second or two. Do this for the first 30 seconds of the charging procedure.

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

Ghwagon on Fri May 30, 2008 11:26 PM User is offline

Good to hear.. What if I turned the nut on the front of the compressor a tad. I did back off on it the same amout I turned it.. Does this alter the Air gap? Im going to check it before I charge it tommorow. I hear .28-30 is fine. I started the car and it seems quiet, At idle w/ the AC off

Another question, With the AC oil, Will all that Oil stay in the compressor when I Evac the empty system? Im not sure if it will... I will be honest. This is the first time messing with an AC system and with the help with some experienced Friends who been doing this for years, I would of been in worse of shape.. I wanted to turn the AC compressor so all the oil circulates into the AC compressor.. And.. thats about the same time I found out It was tight!


Tommorow Im going to pull a Vac (I hope I got all that AC flush out, It seems like it, IF not maybe the Vacuum will get it) And charge it up.


Thanks guys! I can sleep sound now!

GM Tech on Sat May 31, 2008 12:39 AM User is offline

The shaft nut has nothing to do with air gap- it bbottoms out on the end of the shaft- the air gap is set by the press fit of the clutch driver.

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

Chick on Sat May 31, 2008 3:33 PM User is offlineView users profile

As soon as the system starts, the oil will be thru the system, it doesn't stay in the compressor, rather it travels with the refrigerant on that model..... hope this helps..

PS: Vacuum will not remove your oil..Good luck

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Edited: Sat May 31, 2008 at 3:34 PM by Chick

Ghwagon on Sat May 31, 2008 5:38 PM User is offline

Okay... Well it works!


ACkits Nylog and O rings seem to be holding.

I had to adjust the pressure cycling switch, It seems good.. It Ran WAYY to long and was icing up the lines.

The compressor still runs for about 10 mins straight before it cycles on and off. The lines are not icing.. It is pretty damn Humid out right now. Maybe the switch still needs to be adjusted. I have to check the pressures.

After driving it 30 mins, when I popped the hood the compressor was cycling on and off like it should. After I restarted it, It just seems to run.. Maybe because its humid?

Im a novice with this..

Chick on Sat May 31, 2008 6:32 PM User is offlineView users profile

The hotter it is, the less cycling you'll see, the cooler it is out, the more cycling. Hope this helps..
Adjust your cycling switch by pressure. The lines may not be freezing, rather the moisture on them during humid weather.. You want it to cycle at around 21 to 25psi on the low side..Depending on refrigerant. You also want the proper amount of refrigerant in the system...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Edited: Sat May 31, 2008 at 6:54 PM by Chick

Ghwagon on Sat May 31, 2008 8:01 PM User is offline

I put 2.8 Pounds of R-134a.. Before it took 3.12 pounds of r-12. I was told to put about 90 percent of the old R-12

Chick on Sat May 31, 2008 8:16 PM User is offlineView users profile

Did you pull a deep vacuum first, what are the pressures, both high and low.. Check out Vac/charge procedures as a guide only as every system has it's quirks. But if you didn't pull a good vacuum, it might be shutting down on the high side? post your pressures along with the outside temp..Hope this helps..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Ghwagon on Sun June 01, 2008 2:10 PM User is offline

CRAP! Aparently there is a r-12 and r-134a specfic AC comp cycling switch for this vehicle...

Maybe this is the problem? Next week Ill work on it again and ill post up Info on the pressures- ETC.

scoob8000 on Sun June 01, 2008 9:45 PM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: Chick
You want it to cycle at around 21 to 25psi on the low side..Depending on refrigerant. You also want the proper amount of refrigerant in the system...

Sorry to threadjack!

I did a R12/134a retrofit on an identical car last summer. I had chatted with Ghwagon off-list about the low pressure cutoff switch on the accumulator. Is it normal to need to adjust it after doing a conversion?

I would imagine one could rig it up with an air compressor and regulator to set it for the proper pressure. (watching continuity between the terminals).

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iciss.net - Iron City Impala SS Owners

Ghwagon on Sat June 07, 2008 8:50 PM User is offline

Low side is 31-34 psi, High side is 201- then bumped down to 190 after running for a bit. If I manually disconnect the adjustable pressure switch, The pressures jump to 50-1 psi on the low side. It was HOT. 90 degrees out.

The compressor clutch still wont cycle. At idle, AC is so so.. After a ride on the highway the system is ice, I turned the switch clock wise.

I put less R-134a in the system this time 2.6 pounds. Its def colder now.

How the heck can I get this thing to cycle!

Chick on Sat June 07, 2008 9:06 PM User is offlineView users profile

It only cycles when it's needed, around 21 to 25psi low side, as stated, if it's hot and humid, don't look for cycling.... colder weather it will cycle much more, or when the low side reached cut out pressures, like going down the highway on a cool night...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Ghwagon on Sat June 07, 2008 9:32 PM User is offline

SO this is okay? Or should the clutch turn off the compressor before it ever reaches 31psi.

The AC comp never ran constant ever w/ the r-12 system, nor on the other r-134a system I have with the same compressor.

The system wont even get Cold untill its on the highyway, My other systems will.

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