Engine Size: 400
Refrigerant Type: R12
Country of Origin: United States
"""You do not have to disassemble the compressor. There is a snap ring in the front and with the proper tools, it all comes apart. Use a double lip seal as a replacement. Have done many over the years. I use a test plate on the rear to pressurize the replacement. Do not be surprised if the new onw leaks until you turn the shaft a few hundred times to seat the seal."""
Dougflas please help.
Many of us are having trouble with repeat leaks on our A6 compressors. Some of us are also having trouble with double lip seals leaking immediately after installation. I noticed your comment from a previous post so I attached it above. It sounds like you have experienced leaking DLS's right after installation. sounds like turning the shaft may seat the seal. Please describe the actual procedure you use. I can envision pressurizing the system to some amount and then connecting a drill motor and spin away. Please shed as much light as you can on what you have done. Many of us are desperate for a fix since we want the original look but can't stand the mess on our classic iron.
PS I bought all my tools and the seals from AC Kits to support the site.
Link in the tips section of this site explains the GM shaft seal replacement very well.
Chick's GM Shaft Seal Procedure.
I carefully followed 3 different posts with pictures. The job went pretty smooth. I'm afraid the fix may be marginal on some compressors so I am hoping one of the experts has experienced a leaker and figured out how to deal with it.
My leak check with a stethoscope was not able to determine if the leak was at the shaft or at the o-ring.
But when pressurized to 80 PSI there is no leakage at the seal. I rotated the compressor about 100 turns with an air tool and there was no leak. Now if I grab the shaft at the threads and pull it with about 40+ pounds of force, the seal will leak.
When I try to pull a vacuum there is a definite leak - I can only get about 18"Hg. If I push on the shaft threads with about 5-10 pounds of force the vacuum leak becomes severe.
This compressor has 1000 miles maximum on it. The shaft is definitely not extremely rigid - there is some slop. My fear is that with a ceramic face seal, shaft rigidity was not important. But with a lip seal, shaft rigidity and a centered location become more critical. Who knows what will happen when the shaft is spinning - it may center itself or it might bounce.
Do you use the GM seal or the Delco seal???
Should I gas up the system and see if it holds freon? I could always dump the moisture by purging the freon if the seal did not leak after a trial run.
Hopefully one of the experts who does this conversion regularly will add some comments.
Edited: Wed May 28, 2008 at 2:23 AM by Rick Johnson
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