Engine Size: 350
Refrigerant Type: 134
Country of Origin: United States
after I successfully uninstalled and reinstalled a new compressor from ACkits plus a new drier, i was hesitant to pull off the front grill to access the orifice tube in the liquid line to the condenser. Man, am I glad that I did so. The tube that came out looked as if it was plugging up similar to the dreaded ford "black death". i was surprised to find this, as this car was kept in immaculate condition. As I stated in a previous post, the car squealed something fierce and I saw some smoke but at the time, I thought that the power steering pump seized up. After I replaced the pump and the lines and noticing that the AC didnt work, I turned my attention to the compressor. Not taking any chances, I started replacing parts. I don't have any flushing equip so I was going to use compressed air at the condenser to try and get that junk out. Once its all back together, I will post some #'s but I may need help determining what is a good high and low # to shoot for. Any input will be appreciated!
If it is as bad as you say. Replace the condenser and flush the evap. Hoses without mufflers can be flushed otherwise replace hose set. If you do not do this you're just going to destroy the replacement compressor. Also not following what is suggested will void the manufactures warranty guidelines. So keep that in mind if you select not to follow our suggestions.
from the location of the oriface tube you must have front air only! You could use flush and pour it in and propel it with compressed air also flush the evaporator. That way with all the work you have done you can use the required amount of pag oil and have a cleaner system and know exactly where your at on the amount of pag oil . flush flush and blow blow.I used to tape old garden hose to outlet and blow into a bucket so it did not get on any thing but still messy and turned out a better job.Remember dont flush accumalator , or compressor. 8oz pag 150 for front only a/c .
Thanks for the responses so far. I value the opinions of everyone on this board and judging by the experience you folks have, why would I not heed your suggestions? That would be totally insane! So, Im heading down to the local NAPA to pick up some AC flush now. I will attempt to flush both the condenser & evap. Yes, I do have front air only. I was looking at possibly buying one of the flush systems on ACkits for my next job..a 92 ford explorer. I am leaning towards the pulsator unit as I am only an occasional DIY'er. Does this unit come with everything that is pictured? Anyone have experience using it?
That explorer is a mess. When my sister bought it, the AC was dead. So, she took it to a mechanic who replaced the compressor with a used unit, and recharged with FREEZE 12 stating that R-12 was far too expensive. Worked great for 2 months then it died again. When I called him up, he said that he warranted the work for 60 days and that there was nothing else he could do (unless I paid him another 100.00 to change out the accumulator and recharge)...So, I pulled it apart and took out the orifice tube and low and behold, it was completely occluded with "black death" particles. Paid this "mechanic 350.00 to "fix" it/ That is how I got interested in fixing my own stuff. So, when I am ready, the Ex is up next..I guess the same stuff...new compressor, accumulator and poss a condenser.....
Anyway..off to NAPA I go....Thanks
If you have any amount of solid debris I highly suggest replacing the condenser. Even on a serpentine design it is tough to get the debris out in this modern style condenser. Even if you think it is clean you may be just bypassing a section which is clogged. This in turn will cause poor cooling, odd pressures and a chance of compressor failure.
GREAT link..thanks! Well, it looks like I know what my next "tool" purchase from ACkits is going to be! I was going to get the universal clutch puller tool here but I think the flush system is first up. Thanks again for the info. Now, the disturbing part.....guess what kind of coolant I have in the car? You guessed it--Dexcool. I remember someone telling me that the green and the orange doesnt mix so I never "topped off" the Dexcool stuff with green although Ive heard people say stuff like 'antifreeze is just that, antifreeze'! Seeing some of those pics chick posted regarding "sand in the block", do I have anything to be concerned over? Remember that this car is a 95 chev with a 350. BTW, if there is a GM guru on this board, can someone tell me if this car has a cast iron or aluminum block..can't find that info anywhere and all 350's kinda look the same to me. By nature, Im a ford boy; I love the old FE 352/360/390/427/428 blocks. Chevy 350's are something new, so Im learning as I go along! Thanks guys!
Looks like I posted a link to Chicks use of the "Coolant Pulsator".
This should be the correct link to the "Pulsator Flush Gun". They are two different tools.
The 350 you have is an iron block. The coolant issues have had many valid theories thrown at them and I am not jumping on the blame game; you can search the internet for all that info.
IMHO: I believe the casting sand has always been there and it is the advent of the new antifreezes and their seemingly inferior rust inhibitors that may be releasing more of it than we have ever seen before. This is compounded by recommended extended service intervals that appear to be too long (oops). Put this all together in your GM and it is lovingly called dex-mud. Severe cases do not respond well to diluted single chemical treatments and many do not respond to the two part caustic treatments. The "Coolant Pulsator" has proven effective on even some of the most severely blocked systems and just received the Professional Tool & Equipment News (PTEN) 2008 Innovation award.
You can see more details on these two different flushers, articles, testimonials, & videos at my web site and your best purchase price will be found here at ACKits.com.
Yes, that flush gun for Ac systems is tops for the DIy'er and I highly recommend it. Here's the link it makes fast work of the system, but remember you still must use plenty of shop air to fully dry the system. Any residual flushing agent will contaminate the new oil..But it's a plus in my book...
Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose
Thanks for the input so far. Adequate airflow? well, the only air compressor which I have so far is a little porter cable pancake unit with 150lbs max pressure and 3.3 SCFI. Do you think that this is enough to drive the flushing unit or am I looking at another air unit too? I have an old style dual cylinder gas powered emglo but the engine on that is dead. What do you think??
You need a good air supply, removing the flush and drying the system is extremely important. They do sell many types of air compressors (with different capacity tanks) for home use, the price range varies greatly too...
Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose
Thanks for the info chick. One more question. Does anyone know the 134a capacity for my truck (has front air only)....to refresh, 95 tahoe with 350.
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